- The shop was famous for its milk tea cookie shots and frequently introduced new creations that stirred up nostalgia
- The patisserie often collaborated with local businesses; they said they are proud to have supported the city through spreading simple joy in pastries
Cronut inventor’s Dang Wen Li bakery to shut after four years in Hong Kong. Photo: HandoutDang Wen Li has not spent as much time in Hong Kong as the likes of Hoover Bakery or Happy Cake Shop, but news of its closure at the end of this month has been met with disappointment.
A spin-off of Dominique Ansel’s eponymous bakery in New York, Dang Wen Li – the name comes from the Mandarin pronunciation of Ansel’s first name – launched to much fanfare with a large shop and cafe in Tsim Sha Tsui’s Harbour City in December 2019, with Ansel flying in for the occasion.
The initial line-up of cakes and Viennoiserie paid tribute to Hong Kong cultural icons – the brand quickly became known for its milk tea cookie shots and lemon mousse and bergamot cream cake, which was designed to look just like a lemon tea juice box.
In 2019, Ansel told SCMP before the bakery’s opening that he didn’t want to just bring in his most famous creations (including the Cronut pastry he became known for) since he wanted to create “pastries that are inspired by the culture and traditions of Hong Kong”.
Hongkongers were delighted by glutinous rice balls filled with peanut ice cream, torched to order for a crunchy, caramelised exterior and served on a stick to look like a skewer of curry fish balls.
Another creation celebrated the gothic look of a century egg, in the form of a hazelnut, coffee and black sesame cake.
“It’s challenging, it’s hard to think of new ideas, work with new products, learn the local culture and adapt the menu, and take the essence of what you do and translate it into something new, for a local market,” he told SCMP back then. “It’s so important for us to have emotional connections to people.”
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In the years since opening, Dang Wen Li has regularly launched new creations that stir up nostalgia and memories: in one of its more recent collections, childhood snacks such as Koala’s March biscuits and Haw Flakes were points of inspiration.
The brand also made an effort to collaborate with Hong Kong businesses – in 2021, it partnered with leading siu mei (roast meats) stall Sun Kwai Heung for a special char siu and egg croissant, and with long-standing Kung Lee on Hollywood Road to produce a sugar cane juice sorbet.
“From cookie shots that look like Yakult bottles from our childhoods to hot chestnut madeleines, pineapple bun mousse cakes, and peanut mochi chaussons (turnovers), we have loved making pastries that celebrated a city we love,” reads an Instagram post from Dang Wen Li on January 8.
“We are proud and honoured to have had an opportunity to welcome you and share what we do here in Hong Kong through some difficult times, and supporting it through spreading simple joy in pastries.”
Fans left messages of support, including British food writer Felicity Spector, who wrote: “So sorry to hear! It was truly wonderful being there for the very start. I still remember every beautiful dessert.”
The post reminds those who still hold Dang Wen Li gift vouchers to redeem them before the end of the month at its two remaining stores in Central and Admiralty.
Upper East Holdings, the company that brought Dang Wen Li to Hong Kong along with Lady M and Sugarfina, did not respond to a request for comment.