Why you don't need a 10-step Korean skincare routine, according to a Hong Kong dermatologist
- Many hope to achieve the ‘glass skin’ look though multistep skin regimens using South Korean products, but most teens can skip it, expert says
- Wear sunscreen, moisturise, and manage stress to help prevent breakouts
You can have good skin WITHOUT spending an hour on skincare every night! Photo: ShutterstockSouth Korea is famous for K-beauty: make-up and skincare, and the Korean skincare routine – known for the exhaustive steps people take to achieve the “glass skin” look – has become popular around the world. But you might not need to use so many products, said Dr Kingsley Chan, a dermatologist based in Hong Kong with more than 15 years of clinical experience. Here’s a quick explainer on the steps of a Korean skincare routine and why you can probably skip most of it.
What is the basis of Korean skincare?
Korean skincare focuses more on prevention and protection instead of using products to heal or hide existing damage.
It promotes using natural ingredients to preserve the skin’s barrier, aiming to protect it via cleansing, hydrating and nourishing.
The optimal result is exceptionally smooth, clear, and lustrous skin that looks as perfect as glass.
What are the steps?
Although there is some variation, a Korean skincare routine usually consists of 10 to 12 steps, though some are not done every day:
1. Double cleanser
This step is a core part of the Korean skincare routine. First, you use an oil-based cleanser to remove oil-based impurities and make-up, followed by a water-based cleanser to tackle whatever is left, like sweat and dirt.
2. Exfoliant
Exfoliants are designed to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores. Common exfoliants include scrubs, peels and pads. This is typically done 1-2 times a week.
3. Toner
This step helps balance the pH levels of your skin. A balanced pH level means more moisturised skin.
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4. Essence
Essence further hydrates the skin and improves elasticity and texture.
5. Serum
Also known as treatment, serums are highly condensed ingredients that target specific skin problems such as wrinkles, acne, or dark spots.
6. Sheet mask
These are sheets soaked in serums that you wear for about 20 minutes to further hydrate and nourish your skin. These are also done once or twice a week.
7. Eye cream
The skin around the eyes is delicate and requires special care. Eye cream hydrates and refines this area.
8. Moisturiser
This step ensures that all the hydration done in the previous steps is fully locked within your skin, creating a protective barrier against the environment.
9. Sunscreen
Sunscreen protects your skin from sun damage. Too much sun exposure can damage healthy cells. The damage can build up, resulting in freckles, age spots and wrinkles – not to mention skin cancer.
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10. Sleeping mask
Sleeping masks are heavier creams that keep your skin hydrated and nourished even as you sleep.
11. Facial oil
This step is optional but is helpful for people with dry skin. Facial oils can help seal in moisture and provide an extra layer of hydration.
12. Mist
Mists are lightweight sprays you can carry during the day and use whenever your skin feels dry.
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What does a dermatologist say?
According to Chan, not only is the routine complex and “time-consuming”, but it could also “increase the chance of allergy”.
“For example ... [the products] have ingredients with preservatives, clearings, and perfumes. All these may cause allergies and itchy skin.”
As the routine is targeted at a wide range of people, some steps are unnecessary for teenagers, such as anti-ageing ones. “Kids only need to do hydration and cleansing,” Chan said.
Teenagers also have different skin conditions than adults, so some products wouldn’t be as useful or necessary. “Most teenagers’ skin is prone to be oily, and people’s skin type changes during the teenage years,” explained Chan.
You also need to consider the weather and season. You’ll probably want to choose oil-control products during the summer, whereas in winter, opt for hydration-focused ones. Don’t stick to the same product all year round, as this could result in allergies.
There are easier ways for teenagers to protect their skin without costing a fortune and taking up so much time. Chan suggested using sunscreen during the day and cleansing at night to reduce the amount of oil on the face. He also recommended using moisturiser to keep the skin hydrated and maintaining a healthy diet.
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“Try to eat [foods like] veggies because they have more antioxidants and can help the skin,” he said, adding that it may also be helpful to limit dairy intake as too much dairy could increase the risk of breakouts.
And while it might sound impossible, another key step to clear skin is maintaining a low level of stress – so download a meditation app or spend some time in nature by going for a short walk. Your skin will thank you for it!