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Snake soup restaurant Ser Wong Fun marks 130 years serving an iconic Hong Kong dish

Famed for a speciality dish that’s not for the squeamish, the eatery founded in 1895 is branching out under owner Gigi Ng

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Gustav, a tourist from Germany, tucks into snake soup at Ser Wong Fun in Hong Kong. Photo: Sarah Kohler
As news of restaurant closures has become commonplace in Hong Kong, it’s a refreshing change to hear of an establishment marking 130 years in business. That’s the enviable position of Central restaurant Ser Wong Fun, founded in 1895, in the town of Dali, in the Nanhai district of Guangdong province, and specialising in Cantonese snake soup, a dish popular during the colder months due to its warming benefits. Fourth-generation owner Gigi Ng Chui-po has spearheaded, if not a revival, then a greater appreciation of snake as an important traditional Cantonese ingredient.
A chef prepares Ser Wong Fun’s signature Tai See Snake Soup. Photo: Sarah Kohler
A chef prepares Ser Wong Fun’s signature Tai See Snake Soup. Photo: Sarah Kohler
This Year of the Snake has seen Ng double her efforts, in collaborations with the likes of pizzaiola Roberta de Sario, of Central restaurant Falcone, on a neo-Neapolitan snake-meat pizza, building upon a previous crossover with Pizza Hut in 2023. She also turned the area in front of the Cochrane Street restaurant into a busking zone over the summer months, with a window booth serving cocktails designed by local Chinese liquor maker Magnolia Lab that pay homage to Ser Wong Fun’s founder and Ng’s great-grandfather, Ng Gwai-fun.
Pizzaiola Roberta de Sario of Falcone, trying the snake-meat pizza. Photo: @falconehk/Instagram
Pizzaiola Roberta de Sario of Falcone, trying the snake-meat pizza. Photo: @falconehk/Instagram

The restaurant is offering a special eight-course anniversary menu, featuring dishes such as ribs glazed with lychees and plums, crispy crab claws with lemon dip, and the signature Tai See Snake Soup, simmered for 24 hours with five types of snake, chicken and pork bones, aged tangerine peel and sugar cane. There’s also the “Bitter Turns Sweet” bento box, comprised of morsels that cover the flavour spectrum of sweet, sour, bitter and spicy.

The Bitter Turns Sweet bento box. Photo: Sarah Kohler
The Bitter Turns Sweet bento box. Photo: Sarah Kohler

“I didn’t plan our 130th anniversary in a business sense. I did it more to commemorate my parents, my grandmother and my ancestors,” says Ng. “My mother passed away in August last year. She was the one who worked the longest in our family business – for 63 years – so I wanted to remember her this way.”

After studying industrial engineering in Toronto, Canada, Ng returned to Hong Kong, initially working as an engineering consultant before earning an MBA. In 2000, she took over the family restaurant with her mother when her father became ill, and has since devoted herself, and most of her waking hours, to preserving her family’s legacy.

Gigi Ng, the owner of Ser Wong Fun in Hong Kong. Photo: Sarah Kohler
Gigi Ng, the owner of Ser Wong Fun in Hong Kong. Photo: Sarah Kohler

“I think it’s fate,” she says. “I don’t have time to go out to eat, unless it’s [to network] within the F&B industry. My customers have practically become my friends. We are doing OK but, honestly, Central at night, it’s quiet.”

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She laments that diners have become more thrifty, and her dishes are not cheap, given the restaurant’s location, in the heart of Central, and its niche speciality, with a bowl of five-snake soup priced at HK$140 (US$18) per bowl. As if on cue, a trio of South Korean tourists arrive at a nearby table, but after a quick glance at the menu, they leave.

The exterior of Ser Wong Fun, on Cochrane Street, in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Sarah Kohler
The exterior of Ser Wong Fun, on Cochrane Street, in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Sarah Kohler
Still, Ng is not deterred. She has continued to test new products, such as egg waffles targeted at passers-by. She thrusts a brown paper bag, containing the piping-hot street snack, into my hands. Laced with chenpi, or dried tangerine peel, it combines two traditional foods in a novel way.
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Ng clearly revels in this exercise, which she takes to the next level at Four Seasons Fun Fong, a restaurant she opened in Sha Tin with Charles Choi King-ting, CEO of Tian Tian Catering Group. Its menu takes inspiration from the history of Ser Wong Fun but reimagines it in dishes targeted towards younger, social media-savvy customers, such as snake soup and uni mixian.

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