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Roganic’s next chapter comes with a new menu and sustainable look

Roganic in Hong Kong’s Lee Garden One turns over a new leaf with not just its interior – it’s also scrapped tasting menus in favour of family-style courses

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Simon Rogan (centre) with chefs Adam Catterall (left) and Oli Marlow, at Roganic. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Roganic has had a major glow-up, to put it in Gen Z terms. The original sustainable fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong, opened by British chef Simon Rogan in 2019, shared space in a nondescript Causeway Bay shopping mall with luxury goods resellers. And while it was lauded for its execution and affordability, the interiors were decorated in a style best described as “English woodland meets Scandi boardroom”.
Roganic’s stunning, sustainability-focused new look. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Roganic’s stunning, sustainability-focused new look. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Its second iteration, which has been in the making for seven months, is a world apart. Found inside the swanky, recently refurbished Lee Garden One, the restaurant welcomes diners through a minimalistic antechamber, before they step into an all-encompassing vision of sustainability designed by local studio Atelier E, where sinuous trunks of typhoon-salvaged wood rise and join with the ceiling in a jaw-dropping exercise in woodworking. Rogan has also shed the traditional format of tasting menus, instead opting for family-style courses where each dish is plated to be shared.

Now, he looks back on the past six years and reveals how he intends to take Roganic into its next era.

Roganic’s Simon Rogan. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Roganic’s Simon Rogan. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Roganic has finally opened its doors in a new location. What prompted the move?

We felt we’d gone as far as we could with it. We’d outgrown it, and it was a little tired. We took over an existing restaurant back then and only did minimal renovations. It was a good start – a one-star, good-value-for-money kind of place. But we wanted to up the standards and offer something more exciting.

The design of the restaurant is stunning. It reminds me a little bit of The Hobbit

Yes! The design is meant to carry our ethos right through the whole restaurant. When it was being constructed, I got a little worried it might feel like a themed restaurant, but now it looks great with all the accessories in place.

A lot of the furniture has been repurposed from the previous Roganic, the floor is made from recycled marble tiles, and the bar counter from repurposed oyster shells.
Simon Rogan

The entrance is quite understated. What was the thinking behind that?

We’re always about “less is more”. We don’t want to give away too much. Coming through that entrance is meant to be a surprise – like entering a fairy tale or film set.

What was the brief you gave the designers?

Atelier E did their research on us – there’s lots of information about what we stand for and the different styles of restaurants we have around the world. They came up with this, incorporating the story of the wood and the recycled trees. A lot of the furniture has been repurposed from the previous Roganic, the floor is made from recycled marble tiles, and the bar counter from repurposed oyster shells.

In addition to unveiling a new look, Roganic has also revamped its menu. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
In addition to unveiling a new look, Roganic has also revamped its menu. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

What about the menu? Is it new, too?

Absolutely. We wanted a clean start, so we created a new menu specifically for this location – no existing dishes from the first Roganic or any of our other restaurants around the world. The process behind designing the menu involved revisiting our farmer relationships. That hasn’t changed; if anything, it’s grown. The number of local suppliers has exploded since we first came to Hong Kong. There’s so much more choice now, and we work closely with people we trust.

And you’re moving away from tasting menus

We looked hard at Roganic and decided to differentiate it from Aulis – which remains the extension of L’Enclume (Rogan’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Cartmel, northern England). À la carte gives people choice – they can eat conservatively or extravagantly. It’s still value for money, and it can be a much shorter experience if desired. You can be in and out in an hour or linger for three. It takes the formality out of things.
Dry-aged Guangdong duck, 100 flower honey, braised leg with pickled walnut. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Dry-aged Guangdong duck, 100 flower honey, braised leg with pickled walnut. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Have you incorporated any new sustainability initiatives into this location?

Zero waste is a key part of our ethos. All the snacks at the beginning are offcuts or leftovers from the main ingredients in the menu. We’re using as much of each ingredient as possible. We want as little to go out in those bins as possible, so as much as we can, it goes off to the plate. If there is waste, it goes to Hysan’s Food TranSmarter, which turns it into gas that creates electricity for the building. We also have a space on the roof where we’re growing herbs and flowers.

Is there a particular dish you would say captures your change in direction?

If you pushed me, it would be the maitake mushroom, which is lots of grains cooked in a maitake mushroom stock, and different textures of maitake mushrooms: some roasted in miso, others deep-fried. So it’s got loads of layers of flavour and umami.

Kuruma prawn-stuffed carrot, black garlic, caviar and rose hips at Roganic. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Kuruma prawn-stuffed carrot, black garlic, caviar and rose hips at Roganic. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Do you have plans for Aulis in Hong Kong?

We’re looking at SoHo. It’ll be buzzy and funky, just like Aulis London, where you go down a little alleyway with lots of graffiti. That’s sort of what we want in Hong Kong. That will be where we showcase L’Enclume.

It sounds like there’s a real dialogue between Hong Kong and London

We’ve got great ambition for here. Once it’s absolutely finished, I think it’s going to fly. I have to confess, this is a little bit of a guinea pig for me. I just wanted to see how this concept worked, but I’m already convinced this will be amazing in London. Roganic closed just before Covid in London, mainly because it was a bit of an awkward site and it wasn’t really working for us. We always had the intention of bringing Roganic back – we just didn’t know when or what concept. Now we know.

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