Q&A | 9 best spots to eat and drink in Hong Kong, according to an up-and-coming Cantonese chef

Oliver Li, of new modern Cantonese restaurant Jee and a Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon alum, on his favourite local dining hotspots

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Chef Oliver Li with Ying Jee Club executive chef Siu Hin-Chi. Photo: Jee

Gavin Yeung

Published: 5:15pm, 4 Oct 2024

Cantonese cuisine is at a crossroads in Hong Kong, with a shortage of young, home-grown talent willing to enter such a labour-intensive industry. There may be hope yet, however, in chefs such as Oliver Li, of Jee, a new restaurant in Central that infuses Cantonese flavours into French-inflected fine dining.

Jee combines Cantonese tradition with modern techniques. Photo: Jee

Opened in collaboration with chef Siu Hin-chi of two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club, Jee draws from a generational exchange of Cantonese cooking and adds a modern twist.

PostMag caught up with Li, a L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon alum, to find out where he goes for inspiration and good Cantonese food in the city.

Is there a restaurant that is moving Hong Kong’s culinary scene forward?

Amber revamped its concept in 2019 to remove dairy completely from its kitchen. Photo: Amber

Amber. It’s a very innovative kitchen that is pushing non-dairy cuisine. In Hong Kong, this is an avant garde way of thinking that nobody has developed before. I’ve thought about doing the same [at Jee]. There is a demand from our guests, so it’s a good direction to develop. Non-dairy cuisine is more sustainable, and dairy consumption isn’t good for our health either. At Jee, we use soy milk to replace cow’s milk, or chicken oil to replace butter since dairy isn’t a great fit for Cantonese cuisine.

Where do you go to be inspired?

I take inspiration from things I ate when I was a child. Some dishes on the current tasting menu, like the langoustine dumpling in bouillon, are based on food that was very new when I was a kid, but is not talked about today. For example, I wanted to create a fried milk dessert, but it turned out that many people don’t even know what it is any more, so I want to bring it back. Our cuisine is also inspired by chef Siu Hin-chi’s signature dishes, reinterpreting them in a new light.

Where do you eat after work?

Sing Kee, a dai pai dong on Stanley Street in Central. Photo: Alexander Mak

I like to walk down to Sing Kee, a dai pai dong on Stanley Street in Central, for their wok stir-fries. They have dishes like fried goose intestines with pickled mustard greens which are very aromatic and delicious with beer.

Favourite place to drink?

Chef Oliver Li recommend Leeder Quay on Wellington Street in Central for high-quality South African wines. Photo: Alexander Mak

I love my South African wines. I normally go to Leeder Quay on Wellington Street in Central because they sell high-quality South African wines for reasonable prices, sometimes as low as HK$200 for a bottle that, in my mind, is worth HK$700 to HK$800.

Which hidden-gem restaurant would you recommend to visitors?

A dish of roasted pork belly at Four Seasons Chinese Restaurant in Central. Photo: SCMP Archives

I would take them to Four Seasons Chinese Restaurant in Central. The steamed lotus leaf rice is amazing.

What’s your favourite market or food stall in Hong Kong?

People buying food at Mong Kok Market. Photo: SCMP Archives

I like to wander around Mong Kok Market. There are huge seafood and vegetable stores which have everything you might need. If I’m looking for seasonal local products, like special vegetables that might only be in season for two or so weeks, I can find them at Mong Kok Market.

Which restaurant serves the best dim sum?

Dim sum dishes at Cuisine Cuisine at The Mira Hong Kong. Photo: Cuisine Cuisine

Cuisine Cuisine in Tsim Sha Tsui. The dim sum is top-notch. All the fillings are made by hand by the executive dim sum chef. He even works on his days off to keep the consistency. I always order the truffle mushroom dumplings.

What is your favourite place for Western food?

I love steak, especially at Burger & Lobster on Harbour Road in Wan Chai. I can practically taste the chef’s dedication to making a good steak. I love to take friends or colleagues there.

Where do you go to escape?

I like to go fishing during my free time, especially at the piers or on breakwaters. It’s relaxing to look at the scenery and the ocean, and just think about things. I’ve caught all sorts, like flower crabs, golden threadfin bream and octopus. Pufferfish are the most common catch. I normally throw the smaller fish back – I bet I feed more fish than I catch!