Letters | Dim sum: a Hong Kong cultural icon calling out for a makeover

Readers discuss reinventing the dim sum dining experience, and how the city can present a welcoming face to tourists

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Customers enjoy the traditional dim sum experience at Lin Heung Lau in Central, Hong Kong, on October 4, 2024. Photo: Alexander Mak

Published: 11:30am, 21 Mar 2025

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When I asked a renowned film producer how Hong Kong movies could go global, his response surprised me: “Forget about movies, our most representative cultural icon is dim sum.”

His insight resonates deeply. Cultural icons embody a place’s collective memory, heritage and values. For Hongkongers, dim sum represents more than mere cuisine – it’s a cherished weekend ritual that transcends social class, strengthening family bonds through shared food. This tradition perfectly captures the Chinese emphasis on family ties.

Dim sum also draws tourists worldwide, from the traditional Dim Sum Go Go in New York’s Chinatown to the upmarket Hakkasan in London offering a modern Chinese twist. Hong Kong’s Tim Ho Wan, which was awarded a Michelin star from 2010 to 2021, has achieved international success and was acquired by Jollibee Food Corporation. However, with Hongkongers increasingly crossing the border for cheaper options in Shenzhen, Hong Kong’s dim sum scene needs reinvention rather than to compete on price.

Cultural icons must evolve with the times. While dim sum varieties have expanded, the fundamental dining experience remains unchanged. To stay competitive, Hong Kong restaurants must shift focus from price to experience. We could draw inspiration from Japanese kaiseki, which has gained popularity in Hong Kong for its ritualistic multi-course presentation and seasonal emphasis.

Hong Kong’s culture thrives on fusion – consider our milk tea, egg tarts, pineapple buns and localised borscht. Why not reimagine dim sum with an East-meets-East twist, incorporating elements of kaiseki’s ceremonial dining experience? The Hong Kong Tourism Board could launch a “dim sum experience makeover” competition during the next Wine and Dine Festival, with the secretary for culture, sports and tourism serving as judge – perhaps alongside her favourite Cantopop artists as well as the insightful film producer I spoke to.

This evolution would not only preserve our cultural heritage but reinforce Hong Kong’s position as a culinary innovator in the global gastronomic landscape.