Eat like a local in Kuala Lumpur: tuck into a juicy Ramly burger or frog legs noodles
Whether Malay, Chinese or Indian, food in the Malaysian capital takes on a different level of deliciousness on the street, from hokkein mee to kare laksa and mutton masala
As the cultural, financial and economic centre of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur – or KL, as locals affectionately know their capital – is a sultry place with a vibrant mix of people. I found the Malay, Chinese and Indian communities here particularly appealing, given the time I’ve spent within mostly Buddhist Bangkok.
Like the Thai capital, KL is a city with a reverence for ancient cultures, not only demonstrated in the many religious temples but in the cuisine, too, which ranges from street food staples to modern Malay and even three-star sushi.
First stop at night should be the neon-lit Jalan Alor, a long stretch of street lined with sloppy-noodle vendors. There is a huge variety of noodles on offer, including the famous hokkien mee (lard-fried noodles) and kare laksa (chicken curry noodle soup).
You’ll also find noodles with frog legs, and some stalls advertising live frogs in cages. If frogs seem too extreme, try the Ramly burger, a greasy beef patty enveloped in an egg, served with lashings of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce. The unusual omelette-like burger has become a KL staple, brimming with Malaysian charm.
While street food remains popular, it is, unfortunately, not as common as it once was with chains and bricks-and-mortar buildings growing everywhere. For a slice of the authentic, make your way over to Pudu Wai Sek Kai, one of the last remaining hawker streets in KL. Order the Penang rojak – a seafood medley with sweet prawn paste – and if you’re still hungry, go for my absolute favourite, char kway teow – stir-fried flat noodles and cockles in pork fat. The legendary chee cheong fun – crépe rolls filled shrimp or beef – are also a must try.
On Jalan Alor, also known as Gluttons Road, you’ll find Wong Ah Wah which serves, according to locals, the country’s best barbecue chicken wings. To meet increasing demand, they recently added a second stove. There’s a minimum order of two wings, but at RM3.20 per piece (77 US cents), this is a delicious steal.