appConfigEntityId

bodyType

customContents

entityId

entityUuid

isVideo

articlePageQuery

article

articleSchemaContent

content

hooksArticlePageAdvertisementConfigArticle

hooksArticlePageFloatingButtonConfigArticle

appConfig

filter

json

liveArticle

Josiah Ng

Though watches are broadly leaning towards the understated and subtle, one of the best ways watchmakers can showcase their technical ability and artistic creativity is by taking three left turns to show time in a revolutionary new way.

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Stone is a case in point, using the “jumping hours” complication that shows the hours in a single window in a rotating dial, and going down to one hand for minutes. The piece is an exercise in simplicity – easy on the eye and bursting with intrigue.

In the sci-fi-esque Urwerk EMC SR-71 Blackbird, traditional dials are given a twist, not only making use of metal from the classic Cold War era reconnaissance plane, but taking inspiration from its flight gauges to show hours, minutes and power reserve on separate faces.

The Trilobe L’Heure Exquise was released at this year’s Watches and Wonders as a limited edition run of 100 pieces, including the starry Secret Edition pictured here. Housed in Grade 5 titanium, the dial uses three rotating discs to tell the time, while the moonphase dial ticks with the seconds.
The retrograde watch does use a hand to tell the time, but it does not fully rotate so much as mechanically snap back at the end of the cycle.

The Otsuka Lotec No 6 and Patek Philippe 5160/500R-001 show this complication in very different aesthetic contexts. The former is almost surgical in its design with brushed metal and needle-esque hands showing the time, no nonsense, no fuss.

The latter grand complication reference, however, shows the time traditionally, but uses the function to show the date, an outstanding feature next to a moonphase and intricately engraved dial and case.

The SpaceOne Tellurium also shows time with the hands, but only barely as rotating facsimiles of the sun, moon and Earth are superimposed on the hands, complemented by a date and month indicator at 6 o’clock.

Arguably the release that made the most waves came out of Geneva Watch Days in August, with the unveiling of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Prototype by the eponymous Russian watchmaking aesthete, at only 1.65mm thick. The watch world now awaits the announcement of a production model that would confirm it as the latest ultra-thin record-breaker.


Atelier Wen spotlights Chinese watchmaking masters through exquisite dial collaborations

Built for adventure: these rugged timepieces from Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille and others are made for the sporty types, weathering the ocean’s depths and the vastness of space

When watchmakers go all out to push horological boundaries, from IWC Schaffhausen’s 45-million-year moonphase to Bovet’s daylight saving world timer

The return of the three-hand watch: dress watches from smaller brands like H. Moser & Cie embrace simplicity, focusing on design and colour, as Rolex, Omega and other big names explore minimalism

XXIV

The future of timekeeping? Patek Philippe and more watchmakers are combining artistry and technical skill in unique complications, from jumping hours to ultra-thin wonders

A different beat (from left): Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing prototype, SpaceOne Tellurium and Otsuka Lotec No.6. Photos: Hodinkee Japan

Andersen Gèneve Jumping Hours Black Stone. Photo: Handout

Urwerk EMC Sr-71. Photo: Handout

Trilobe L’Heure Exquise Edition Secret. Photo: Handout

Otsuka Lotec No.6. Courtesy: Hodinkee Japan. Photo: Handout

Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts reference 5160/500R-001. Photo: Handout

SpaceOne Tellurium. Photo: Handout

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing prototype. Photo: Handout

Is the pink watch trend here to stay? Chanel, Gucci, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Panerai and Jaeger-LeCoultre bring new models in the wake of Barbiecore

Pink watches aplenty as Barbiecore keeps rolling with models from all the big watch players. Photos: Handout

Ryan Gosling at the Barbie premiere in July 2023, wearing a Tag Heuer Carrera Date

Carl F. Bucherer has reworked its emblematic Manero line with the Tourbillon Double Peripheral

Piaget Aura high jewellery watch

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Pink

Panerai Luminor Due 38mm Pastello

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Nude Orchid

The truth behind Trump-branded watches: from the US$100,000 Victory Tourbillon to the US$800 Fighter featuring the president-elect’s signature – pieces to rival a Rolex or overpriced knock-offs?

The truth behind Trump-branded watches: from the US$100,000 Victory Tourbillon to the US$800 Fighter featuring the president-elect’s signature – pieces to rival a Rolex or overpriced knock-offs? Photo: AP Photo

The Trump Fighter Presidential Mogul is listed at US$499 and limited to 500 pieces. Photo: gettrumpwatches.com

The Trump Victory Ultimate Jewel, listed at US$1,199, has a run of 1,000 pieces. Photo: gettrumpwatches.com

The Trump Crypto President watch, US$799, has sold out. Photo: gettrumpwatches.com

4 luxury watches in NBA star Tyrese Haliburton’s collection: the Olympic gold medallist’s first purchase was a Rolex, but which rare Cartier did he get after signing a record Indiana Pacers deal?

NBA star Tyrese  Haliburton has been building on his luxury watch collection. Photo: @tyresehaliburton/Instagram

Tyrese Haliburton sporting a colourful Louis Vuitton duffel bag. Photo: @tyresehaliburton/Instagram

Tyrese Haliburton matches his fashion style with rare luxury watches. Photo: @tyresehaliburton/Instagram

Tyrese Haliburton’s Cartier Pebble is a recent acquisition. Photo: @tyresehaliburton/Instagram

A Cartier Tank Louis seems to be Tyrese Haliburton’s favourite timepiece. Photo: @tyresehaliburton/Instagram

Exotic stone dial watches are staging a comeback: why vintage and modern models by Piaget, Audemars Piguet and Rolex – adorned with stones such as jade, onyx and malachite – are in great demand

Bivier Automatique Rose Gold. Photo: Handout

Piaget Limelight Gala Tsavorite. Photo: Handout

Veteran watchmaker Jean-Claude Biver. Photo: Handout

The JC Biver Automatique Obsidian. Photo: Handout

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36. Photo: Handout

MB&F’s Legacy Machine Flying T. Photo: Handout

Meet the co-founder and CEO of Jay-Z-backed Wristcheck, Austen Chu: he first heard of Audemars Piguet watches in Jay-Z’s songs – now the rapper is an investor, and even invited Chu to the Roc Nation offices

Austen Chu, co-founder of watch marketplace Wristcheck, went from learning of Audemars Piguet through Jay-Z’s songs to having the rapper as an investor. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

WristCheck co-founders Sean Wong and Austen Chu. Photo: Handout

Austen Chu, co-founder of Wristcheck, at its Landmark location in Central. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

The WristCheck store at the Landmark mall in Hong Kong. Photo: Wristcheck

A few prized pieces from Austen Chu’s private collection (from left): Rolex, Atelier Wen, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and another Audemars Piguet. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Jay-Z with a Royal Oak watch from Audemars Piguet in 2005. Photo: Audemars Piguet

Philip Pon (right) talks watches with Roger Smith (left). Pon is now letting go of the Roger Smith Series 2 via Wristcheck. Photo: Courtesy of Philip Pon

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Limited Edition. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck Green. Photo: Wristcheck. Photo: Atelier Wen Perception

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119G Tiffany & Co. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Audemars Piguet Skeleton Openwork Flying Tourbillon. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610 Swiss Only. Photo: Rolex

Magazines

Style

Luxury

Watches

Andersen Genève, Urwerk, Otsuke, SpaceOne and Konstantin Chaykin all bring their creativity to bear on telling the time in a distinctive way


Andersen Genève, Urwerk, Otsuke, SpaceOne and Konstantin Chaykin all bring their creativity to bear on telling the time in a distinctive way.


The future of timekeeping? Patek Philippe and more watchmakers are combining artistry and technical skill in unique complications, from jumping hours to ultra-thin wonders

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Andersen Genève, Urwerk, Otsuke, SpaceOne and Konstantin Chaykin all bring their creativity to bear on telling the time in a distinctive way

Andersen Genève, Urwerk, Otsuke, SpaceOne and Konstantin Chaykin all bring their creativity to bear on telling the time in a distinctive way