Why asymmetrical watches are here to stay: beyond the Cartier Crash, newcomers like Anoma and Berneron are paving the way with quirky and captivating designs
The Cartier Crash has long defined unconventionally shaped timepieces, but a provocative renaissance is now under way as newer brands make their mark
Classics will always hold their charm, but it’s exciting to see how, in recent years, watch enthusiasts have been embracing mid-century-inspired designs. Unusual case shapes, intricate metalwork bracelets and asymmetrical movements are making a bold comeback, and captivating the watch world with their striking aesthetics.
A host of new brands, alongside industry legends, are pushing the traditional boundaries, thrilling collectors with a design language that is audacious and charming. Whether it’s the Dalí-esque Berneron Mirage, Audemars Piguet’s 1960s-inspired [Re]Master02, or the Brutalist B/1 from Toledano & Chan, these creations are truly redefining the landscape of modern watchmaking.
While interest in shaped watches has been simmering on the sidelines for decades, the launch of Cartier’s London Crash in 2018 reignited the trend. Initially understated, the Crash exploded in popularity in 2020, fuelled by celebrity endorsements and exciting new releases. By May 2022, a 1967 model was able to fetch an astounding US$1.5 million at auction.
Today, a growing number of independent brands, designers and artists are expanding the watch world’s vocabulary with a fresh category of modern timepieces. These creations redefine what watch design can be. Exhilarating, even challenging, they shine against a backdrop of deep-seated convention that has often stifled more imaginative visions.
Roni Madhvani, a noted collector of shaped watches for more than three decades – particularly Gilbert Albert timepieces from the 1950s – says, “It’s truly exciting to witness the recent surge in interest surrounding asymmetrical timepieces. This resurgence stems from a growing desire among individuals to be discerning and exclusive, setting themselves apart from the conventional steel sports watch crowd. It also reflects the declining prices of such watches in the secondary market.”
He adds that, unlike mainstream brands, “which often shy away from innovation due to risks and marketing costs”, independents have embraced a fresh approach. “They leverage social media, particularly Instagram, to connect with enthusiasts and engage with watch influencers, adopting a low-budget marketing strategy that resonates with the end wearer.
In the vibrant realm of creative watches, two pieces have captured enthusiasts’ attention: Sylvain Berneron’s Mirage, which sets a new standard in beauty and craftsmanship with its mesmerising movement, and the affordable Anoma by Matteo Vianello. In my opinion, the Mirage deserves a place among the most distinguished watches of our time,” says Madhvani.