How Food Network’s Chopped winner Mario Tolentino is firing up Rosewood Hong Kong’s beloved Henry steakhouse
- Californian-born reality TV star Mario Tolentino is redefining traditional flavours to imprint his identity on Rosewood Hong Kong’s traditional grill and smoke house
- Classics and favourites including beer can chicken and Henry’s signature devilled eggs are being reimagined with what the chef calls the ‘Tolentino twist’
“Being a chef is one of those careers that really draws you in, it’s never something particularly planned – at least, it wasn’t for me.”
San Francisco-born chef Mario Tolentino’s passion for food began at an early age and despite carving out his reputation in Michelin-approved establishments across the United States, his move east isn’t an altogether surprising one. “Growing up, there was a lot of Cantonese food as well as Vietnamese and Thai. It’s something I’ve always been drawn to, and there’s something familiar to it for me.”
When the opportunity to move to Hong Kong presented itself, the former executive chef at San Francisco’s Betelnut – a stalwart of the city’s dining scene for more than 30 years – didn’t hesitate. “I thought, what an amazing opportunity to be part of a community of professionals operating at the highest level, and in the gastronomic centre of the world,” he remembers.
“It felt like a dream come true.”
Bringing his vision to life at Henry, Rosewood Hong Kong’s American grill and smoke house, Tolentino sought to combine ancient and modern techniques. “Seasonality and ingredients play a huge part, but the story behind the cuisine that you’re presenting is really what’s driving me.” This, he says, is the “Tolentino twist”.
He breaks down Henry’s signature devilled eggs as an example. “It’s a traditional American dish, but I’ve made it with Calabrian chilli and instead of bacon, we’ve used pork rinds. We’ve also upped it with some uni and caviar. I think this dish embodies what you can do with an understanding of the origins – and then modernising it. That’s what my approach is like at Henry.”
When inspiration strikes, it can come in many forms, says Tolentino. “It doesn’t have to be about food – it can be a piece of art or even a story that you read.”
