4 new restaurants in Hong Kong to try now, reviewed – Michelin-starred Korean fine dine Mosu arrives at M+ Museum from Seoul, while L’Envol’s Olivier Elzer opens Clarence
- As pandemic restrictions relax in the city, try these delicious new dishes – from char siu at old-school Cantonese joint Ship Kee to pork wontons at Grand Majestic Sichuan
- Elzer, who worked under Joel Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse, and at St. Regis Hong Kong’s L’Envol, struck out on his own with French restaurant Clarence
Mosu, the contemporary Korean fine dining establishment from Seoul, has opened a branch in M+ Museum. L’Envol’s culinary director Olivier Elzer has branched out on his own to open up Clarence in Central. For those who love robust homestyle cuisine, Ship Kee is definitely worth a visit and on the other end of the spectrum, Grand Majestic Sichuan promises high energy ambience with plenty of spice on the plates too.
Scroll down to see what STYLE thinks of these new establishments below.
1. Mosu
Enter Michelin-starred Mosu, which has opened up on the third floor of the M+ Museum. Panelled floor-to-ceiling windows provide a stunning panoramic view of the city while ethereal spherical filament light bulbs dot the ceiling like a starry night. A stunning ambience to prepare you for the stellar menu.
We were treated to a multi-course tasting menu (HK$1,980 or US$250) and from plate to stomach, everything was superb. The meal kicked off with a selection of small bites such as gimbap, a seaweed cup filled with potato salad, seaweed and a marinated raw shrimp on top. We were already impressed with the mushroom tart that was constructed with architectural precision and had the flavours of the best mushroom soup you’ve had in your life, and an amazing abalone tart with charcoal grilled abalone in a crispy “taco” shell made with yuba and shiso leaf that had the perfect bite.
Our favourite mains were black sesame, a tofu shaped like a xiao long bao and filled with creamy Hokkaido sea urchin, served with a light dashi sauce, and the tilefish from Korea served with brassicas and three types of mustard that gave different flavour profiles to tease out the earthiness or sweet brininess of the fish. The acorn noodles with its chewy bite paired perfectly with the black truffles and sauce. You do not need an excuse to visit the art at M+, it’s worth going to there just for Mosu.
Level 3, M+ Cultural District, 38 Museum Drive, West Kowloon
2. Grand Majestic Sichuan
When you enter the Grand Majestic Sichuan, you would be forgiven for thinking you had gone to the wrong place. Nothing at all in the decor says “Sichuan” as we are used to in Hong Kong. In fact, the place looks more like a decadent nightclub from the 1960s with red velvet upholstery and lush carpets – and even free champagne on ice outside the loos.