4 new restaurants in Hong Kong to try now, reviewed – Michelin-starred Korean fine dine Mosu arrives at M+ Museum from Seoul, while L’Envol’s Olivier Elzer opens Clarence

Social restrictions have lifted in Hong Kong with more set to relax this month. We can dine out again into the evening until 10pm so it’s high time to hit up some of these new openings we’ve had in town. Don’t know where to start? We’ve got you covered. Mosu, the contemporary Korean fine dining establishment from Seoul, has opened a branch in M+ Museum. L’Envol’s culinary director Olivier Elzer has branched out on his own to open up Clarence in Central. For those who love robust homestyle cuisine, Ship Kee is definitely worth a visit and on the other end of the spectrum, Grand Majestic Sichuan promises high energy ambience with plenty of spice on the plates too. Scroll down to see what STYLE thinks of these new establishments below. 1. Mosu Get ready for the next K-wave to hit Hong Kong’s palates. Hongkongers have shown their love for K-pop and K-dramas, and Hansik Goo attaining a Michelin star just proves that we hunger for all things Korean. Enter Michelin-starred Mosu, which has opened up on the third floor of the M+ Museum. Panelled floor-to-ceiling windows provide a stunning panoramic view of the city while ethereal spherical filament light bulbs dot the ceiling like a starry night. A stunning ambience to prepare you for the stellar menu. Spirited debate: can biodynamic farming really improve the taste of whisky? We were treated to a multi-course tasting menu (HK$1,980 or US$250) and from plate to stomach, everything was superb. The meal kicked off with a selection of small bites such as gimbap, a seaweed cup filled with potato salad, seaweed and a marinated raw shrimp on top. We were already impressed with the mushroom tart that was constructed with architectural precision and had the flavours of the best mushroom soup you’ve had in your life, and an amazing abalone tart with charcoal grilled abalone in a crispy “taco” shell made with yuba and shiso leaf that had the perfect bite. Our favourite mains were black sesame, a tofu shaped like a xiao long bao and filled with creamy Hokkaido sea urchin, served with a light dashi sauce, and the tilefish from Korea served with brassicas and three types of mustard that gave different flavour profiles to tease out the earthiness or sweet brininess of the fish. The acorn noodles with its chewy bite paired perfectly with the black truffles and sauce. You do not need an excuse to visit the art at M+, it’s worth going to there just for Mosu. Level 3, M+ Cultural District, 38 Museum Drive, West Kowloon 2. Grand Majestic Sichuan When you enter the Grand Majestic Sichuan, you would be forgiven for thinking you had gone to the wrong place. Nothing at all in the decor says “Sichuan” as we are used to in Hong Kong. In fact, the place looks more like a decadent nightclub from the 1960s with red velvet upholstery and lush carpets – and even free champagne on ice outside the loos. But don’t let the decor fool you. Chef Robert Wong, formerly chef de cuisine at Chilli Fagara, brings his fiery brand of authentic Sichuan tastes to this new addition in Alexandra House. We eased our way into the spices with a mild garlic jade heirloom cucumber (HK$98), poached yellow chicken in sesame sauce (HK$148) and a silky-skinned pork wonton (HK$208). Meet Hong Kong’s best chef – Écriture’s Maxime Gilbert wins SCMP’s top dining prize The peppery and pungent ma po tofu (HK$228) was a precursor of what was to come, as the flavours and spices gradually increased, first with the Chongqing laziji (HK$308) – described as “firecracker” local chicken with “heaven-facing” chillies – followed by the shui zhu yu (HK$368), a red snapper in sizzling chilli broth. The crispy firecracker chicken was sautéed thoroughly with generous portions of numbing Sichuan peppers and dried chilli, absorbing the combined piquancies of both. The tender snapper meat in chilli broth perhaps lost out a little, after the powerful flavours of the laziji, and also the plate was too shallow to hold enough broth to seal the flavours. We finished off with the delicious and springy dan dan mian (HK$188), mixed and tossed at the table, and served dry instead of the normal soup version. The restaurant has an extensive champagne and Mao-tai list, as well as a diverse range of wines listed by Chinese zodiacs. Shop 301, 3/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central 3. Clarence To fans of St. Regis Hong Kong’s L’Envol, Olivier Elzer needs no introduction. The charming French chef who trained under the industry greats such as Joel Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse has such a huge following in Hong Kong that he has almost celebrity status. Situated on the 25th floor of H Code, Clarence is Elzer’s passion project and it shows. The multi-function space is divided into a raw bar, a sommelier room fashioned like a cellar door and a main dining area with open views of Tai Kwun. From the raw bar, we tried the sashimi-grade black prawns which are marinated with tonka bean, lemon juice and lemon zest (HK$228). This dish went well with the citrus of the Chenin Blanc white wine. There is an extensive yakifrenchy section on the menu, which are Japanese French ingredients grilled on a robata served in skewers, no doubt a great addition to the wine experience at Clarence. We sampled the frog legs (HK$68), duck confit (HK$68) and Burgundy snails (HK$58). The frogs legs and duck confit were executed well, however, the snails would’ve been better with more garlic and parsley. Why Tirpse’s Rin Horiuchi was crowned the best pastry chef in Hong Kong For mains, we opted for the skate wing, teppan, brown butter and spices (HK$688 per 400g). The fish was perfectly cooked and fell off the bone, with subtle aromas of the butter and spices permeating through the flesh. This went well with the side of garlic confit (HK$90). Ending the meal on a sweet note, we loved the house-made lychee and rose petit-Suisse ice cream that incorporates traditional fromage frais for a tartness that enhanced the fruit and flower aromas. A creative menu combined with an impressive wine list, Clarence will be the favourite of many diners in the city. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central 4. Ship Kee There are many fantastic old-school Chinese restaurants in Wan Chai – top-notch food, well-spaced tables and friendly staff who recognise your grandma who comes every Saturday kind of places. After iconic Cantonese cuisine institutions like Fu Shing fell victim to the pandemic, we were glad to hear that other restaurants like Ship Kee have taken up the mantle. The operations at Ship Kee are definitely more minimalistic than the trusted institutions that have been in the area for decades but the staff who take service to heart, and scrumptious food have upheld the same vibe. Which Hong Kong restaurant has the best wine list – and best bartender? We began our lunch with items from the dim sum menu that included barbecued pork bun (HK$48), steamed siu mai (HK$48) and steamed rice roll with shrimps (HK$48). We loved the silky smooth texture of the steamed rice roll that struck the right balance of structure and texture. Some steamed rice rolls are smooth but do not hold the ingredients together, but the ones at Ship Kee strike the right balance and are a testament to the skill of the dim sum chef. Roast meats here are also superb. The honey glazed barbecued pork (HK$98 for six pieces) wasn’t too sweet and had the golden fat-to-meat ratio. The roast goose (HK$328 for half) had perfectly crisp skin and succulent cuts of meat – another winner. Vegetables rarely end a meal on a high note, but the sizzling lettuce with belacan sauce (HK$128) that features the famous shrimp paste from Tai O Fishing Village had us in raptures. Served in a searing claypot, the piping hot vegetable has an incredible crunch and is smothered in an umami-packed shrimp paste. If you’re after hearty Cantonese fare, look no further than Ship Kee. G/F, Pao Yip Building, 7 Ship Street, Wan Chai Want more stories like this? Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter.