Review / We review Ho Hung Kee, a Hong Kong congee and noodle joint that has stayed true to its roots
The restaurant’s memorable sampan rice porridge is so good that it transports you back in time
I used to go for breakfast with my aunt once a week when I first began working in Hong Kong. We would head to our favourite shop off Tung Lo Wan Road, and park ourselves on a couple of stools facing the street. There was no need for the menu – I would always order sampan congee, and she always had plain congee with a side of stir-fried noodles. Ho Hung Kee has a reputation as a neighbourhood congee and noodle joint like the one I frequented. Founded by Ho Wing-fong and his family, it started as a modest street stall just after World War Two.
Although it is now one of the top four wonton brands in the city, Ho Hung Kee has stayed true to its roots, dishing up local specialities at reasonable prices.
The restaurant has won numerous accolades, including gold at the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s first Best of the Best Culinary Awards in 2001, and the Michelin Guide has acknowledged it since 2009 – with a star since 2012 – so our expectations, when we visited, were high.
When the lift doors open on the 12th floor of Hysan Place, Ho Hung Kee is the star attraction among a slew of eateries. Its bright interiors can be seen beyond a backlit sign. To the left of the entry is a row of seating against a plush Kelly green backdrop. The facade is decorated with lozenge-shaped glass panels suspended to resemble a matrix of diamonds.
The litmus test of any Cantonese congee shop is sampan rice porridge. It is like chicken pot pie: each place does it slightly differently, but everyone can see when it is not done well. Our sampan congee came piping hot, and boasted a beautiful silky consistency. Rather than just preserved squid, salt pork and lettuce typical of sampan congee, Ho Hung Kee’s bowl included thin slices of fresh carp.
Ho Hung Kee’s signature wonton noodle in soup was good: the noodles were springy even after being in the soup for well over 10 minutes, and the dumplings were bursting with plump shrimp wrapped in a light and airy pastry. A dash of red vinegar added bite to the soup. But, the bowl did not stand out the way a signature dish should.