Evolution of the ‘It’ bag: how Sex and the City, Kate Middleton, Hailey Bieber, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have defined what’s hot – from the likes of Hermès, Dior, Fendi, Polène and The Row
Following in the footsteps of bags by Chanel, Balenciaga and Loewe, Singapore-based Aupen (pictured) has achieved cult status, having been spotted in the company of Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez, Olivia Rodrigo and Beyoncé. Photo: Handout
Following in the footsteps of Chanel, Balenciaga and Loewe, Singapore’s Aupen has achieved cult status, having been spotted in the company of Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez, Olivia Rodrigo and Beyoncé
If you want a quick lesson on the “It” bag phenomenon, the best place to start is by rewatching old episodes of Sex and the City. During its six-season run, the hit TV show was the perfect place to spot the next must-have handbag: from the Saddle (Dior) and Birkin (Hermès) to the Baguette (Fendi), the latter of which was a hot topic in multiple episodes, including one in which Samantha accuses a Playboy bunny of stealing her fake version.
While the Baguette still holds a place in Carrie Bradshaw’s heart and wardrobe – it’s made several appearances in the current spin-off, And Just Like That – it has been replaced by other worthy contenders over the decades.
Vérité Weekend bag from Métier. Photo: Handout
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From Balenciaga’s Le City and Chloé’s Paddington to current favourites like the Loewe Flamenco, Bottega Veneta Andiamo or Chanel 11.12, “It” bags have become a big business for designer labels, which continue to launch new styles each season. And now that the market has matured, the “It” bag is having a renaissance.
“While [the “It” bag] once revolved around iconic designs from major luxury houses, it has since expanded,” says Blondie Tsang, president of the Lane Crawford Joyce Group. “It is no longer solely defined by recognisable logos or branding, and includes contemporary brands, or luxury names that favour a quieter approach.”
Logo-covered handbags by high-end brands may still be in big demand, but the competition is heating up with the arrival of understated labels like London-based Métier and hip New York label Khaite. Part of the stealth luxury trend, they focus on timeless designs and exceptional quality and craftsmanship, making them even more alluring.
The Margaux by The Row. Photo: Getty Images
One of the most popular is The Row, a minimalist fashion label founded in 2006 by former child TV stars Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. It has managed to position itself among more exclusive brands like Hermès and Dior, especially in the accessories department, where its logo-less styles have been flying off the shelves.
Its bestselling style and celebrity favourite, The Margaux, has often been compared to a Birkin with its clean lines and limited quantities. It also tends to hold its value or increase in price on the second-hand market, making it very much an “investment piece” – something that not all “It” bags can boast.
Another low-key “It” bag favourite is the Croissant by Lemaire, the brand founded by former Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire. Its functional details and eye-catching curved shape – hence the name croissant – have made it an essential for fashionable women in cities across the globe.
Low-key “It” bag the Croissant by Lemaire. Photo: Handout
