Purified salmon sperm to rejuvenate your skin? Polynucleotides work at a cellular level, reportedly providing deeper hydration and more potent repair than Botox or fillers

Dec 5 , 2024

Polynucleotides – derived from salmon sperm – are more natural and regenerative than other injectables on the market. Photo: Handout

Polynucleotides are emerging as the latest trend in the injectable beauty market, but where do they come from, how do they work, and what sort of benefits do they offer?

The injectables market has long been dominated by treatments like Botox and various fillers, each with its own set of benefits and limitations. Profhilo, in particular, has found its place by offering deep hydration and skin remodelling, becoming a favourite among those seeking natural looking results. Now, polynucleotides are stepping in, promising to take skin rejuvenation to the next level.

What are polynucleotides?

Nucleofill by Promoitalia is a polynucleotide-based beauty product. Photo: Refine Pharma

Polynucleotides are derived from an unexpected source: purified salmon sperm. The process of extraction is both fascinating and meticulous. The salmon sperm is purified to ensure the highest quality and safety of the final product. This purification process removes any impurities, resulting in a product that is both safe and effective for cosmetic use.

Before and after a polynucleotide treatment. Photo: The Soni Clinic

While it might sound unusual, the science behind it is compelling. “Polynucleotides are naturally occurring biopolymers composed of nucleotides, which are the building blocks of DNA and RNA,” says Dr Hannah Kopelman, dermatologist at Kopelman Aesthetic Surgery. She explains that, in cosmetic treatments, polynucleotides are used for their regenerative properties. “When injected into the skin, they stimulate cell repair and regeneration, enhance tissue elasticity, and improve overall skin quality.”

How do polynucleotides work?

Polynucleotides help accelerate healing in wounds and skin injuries. Photo: BU Aesthetics

While Profhilo focuses on hydration and volumisation, polynucleotides target the fundamental cellular processes that keep the skin looking youthful and healthy. “They work by promoting fibroblast activity, which is crucial for collagen production and tissue repair. This leads to smoother, more hydrated and youthful-looking skin,” Kopelman says. This results in a noticeable improvement in skin texture, elasticity and radiance. Additionally, according to Nicole Ho, cosmetic chemist and lab manager for Genie Supply, “Polynucleotides help accelerate the healing process of wounds and minor skin injuries by promoting faster tissue regeneration.”

Why are they suddenly so popular?

Before and after polynucleotide regenerative treatment. Photo: Cosmedics Skin Clinics

Unlike traditional fillers, which simply add volume, polynucleotides work at a cellular level to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. “They help maintain the skin’s moisture balance, resulting in smoother and more youthful-looking skin,” Ho says. “Their anti-inflammatory properties soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and calm conditions such as acne or rosacea.”