A Phnom Penh insider’s hot tips for the best places to eat, drink, shop and get pampered

Cambodia, sandwiched between Thailand and Vietnam, is often overlooked for its better-off neighbours when it comes to tourism, instead known for its grim past under the Khmer Rouge, the radical communist group that killed millions in the country from 1975 to 1979. In the decades since the genocide, the Southeast Asian country has worked hard to rebuild, and its future looks bright. Members of Gen Z – people born from the late 1990s to the early 2000s – make up more than 65 per cent of Cambodia’s population, and they have helped transform the country into a hip tourist destination blending the ancient with the modern. There is a lot to see, from laid-back beach towns to archaeological wonders such as the Angkor temples in Siem Reap. Phnom Penh should also be on tourists’ radars. Rich in culture and with some striking architecture, the Cambodian capital has cultivated a thriving food and arts scene. Getting there from Hong Kong is relatively quick and easy, with flights between the two cities taking two-and-a-half hours. What’s more Hong Kong-based airline Cathay Pacific last year increased its number of flights to Phnom Penh from five per week to one per day. One of the easiest ways to explore Phnom Penh’s boulevards and colonial architecture – the country was under French rule from 1863 to 1953 – is by tuk-tuk. The three-wheeled vehicles weave through the city streets in a system best described as organised chaos. For traditional Khmer architecture, the sprawling Royal Palace near the banks of the Tonle Sap River is the official residence of the King of Cambodia. Phnom Penh local Liny Liem loves the city; she says it is constantly changing with restaurants and bars opening amid a construction boom fuelled by an influx of Chinese money. Born in Takeo province to the south of the city, Liny Liem has spent the past two-and-a-half years working for Rosewood Phnom Penh, a luxury hotel in the heart of the capital that this year celebrates its seventh anniversary. “Phnom Penh offers a bit of everything, from affordable street food to high-end dining and luxury experiences,” Liny Liem says. “What hasn’t changed is the warmth of the people and the rich culture.” Liny Liem says that Phnom Penh has something for everyone, whether that be new dining hotspot Langka Lane in the trendy Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK1) district, an LGBTQ-friendly Femme Pulse party at a nightclub or one of the city’s art galleries. She shares some of her favourite places to eat, drink and shop. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Le Manolis - Phnom Penh (@lemanolis.pp) Le Manolis and Cin Cin Le Manolis is a stylish French restaurant that has an impressive wine selection and is perfect for a date nights or a girls’ dinner. For Italian, try Cin Cin next door; it only opened recently but already has a reputation for serving some of the best pizza in town. No 6, 13 Preah Ang Eng Street, Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 85 369 300 Bún This lively restaurant serves classic Vietnamese dishes such as its namesake bún (noodles), crispy spring rolls and bowls of pho. “The egg coffee is a must-try – definitely a 10/10,” Liny Liem says. No 51, 47 Rue Pasteur, Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 77 727 233 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Bún Phnom Penh - Vietnamese Kitchen (@bun.phnompenh) Labaab Set in a charming old building, Labaab serves dishes from the Mekong River Delta such as fish amok – fish cooked in coconut milk and spices often referred to as Cambodia’s national dish. “Out the back you’ll find Mawsim, a gin distillery that, inspired by Cambodia’s seasons, uses ingredients like lemongrass, citrus, and exotic spices,” Liny Liem says. 81 E2 Preah Monivong Boulevard, Daun Penh District, Phnom Penh, 12201. Tel: (855) 12 955 661 View this post on Instagram A post shared by doo-ʀi-uhn (@dooraian) Uniga The vibe at this hidden gem in Bassac Lane, the city’s bar street, is always on point, with old-school R&B and pop music. Try its prohok cocktail made with fermented Cambodian mudfish paste. “It’s surprisingly delicious,” Liny Liem says. M111, Street 308 Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 96 665 7075 Sora Bar Nothing beats cocktails at this classy indoor and alfresco bar on the 37th floor of the Rosewood with stunning views and live music every night, from Khmer classics and pop to DJ sets. Check out its new Alchemy of Anime menu of 12 signature cocktails concocted by bar manager KT Lam and his team. 66 Monivong Boulevard, Phnom Penh 120211. Tel: (855) 23 936 860 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Sora Bar (@sora_phnompenh) Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung) One of the best places in the city to buy clothes, jewellery and home decor, the market – which owes its English name to the fact that it was visited mainly by Russian expats during the 1980s – is packed with stalls selling everything from handmade silver jewellery and gemstone rings to silk scarves and stylish clothing. “You can shop for fabric and have a tailor create a custom outfit,” Liny Liem says. A must-visit store is For Someone I Love, which has jewellery and work by Cambodian artists. Corner of Street 163, Street 440, Phnom Penh 12310. Tel: (855) 15 222 930 Street 240 This charming, tree-lined street behind the Royal Palace is filled with boutiques, artisans’ stores and cafes. It is a great place to shop for Cambodian jewellery, fashion, home decor, and handmade gifts in shops such as Shade, Paradise, Elsewhere, and A.N.D. “Grab a coffee at Bari-sta, or – if you are looking to relax – stop by Bliss Spa for a massage,” Liny Liem says. Intersection of Norodom Boulevard and Sihanouk Boulevard View this post on Instagram A post shared by Samai Rum (@samaidistillery) Samai Rum Distillery In the heart of Phnom Penh, and open every Thursday and Saturday with live DJ performances, Samai is a popular after-dinner spot known for its craft rum. 9b, 830 Samdach Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh 12301. Tel: (855) 17 607 910 B-Box at Factory Phnom Penh Housed in the Factory arts hub, a converted garment factory with green spaces, murals, a skateboard park and the country’s first trampoline park, B-Box hosts everything from DJ nights and live bands to art shows and community gatherings. NR2, Factory, Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 69 351 141 Sense, A Rosewood Spa Perfect for a relaxing massage, Sense has seven treatment rooms and a nail studio, all with views of the city skyline. A 22-metre indoor swimming pool is on the same floor. 66 Monivong Boulevard, Phnom Penh 12202. Tel: (855) 23 936 888 Bodia Spa View this post on Instagram A post shared by bodia spa (@bodia_spa) Head here for a traditional Khmer massage called the “Cambodian Cocoon”, which uses natural, locally sourced products such as coconut and lemongrass oil for massages, facials and body treatments. Various outlets citywide La Petite Nails There are many places for a good manicure-pedicure, but if you want to treat yourself head to La Petite Nails. “It does amazing nail art,” Liny Liem says. Prices start at around US$40, which is expensive for Phnom Penh. “It doesn’t take walk-ins, so book in advance,” she adds. TK Central, F1 Street 289, Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 93 977 091 Wat Phnom A must-visit in the heart of the city, this temple is the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. “According to legend, it was founded by Lady Penh [the woman credited with founding Phnom Penh in the 14th century] after she discovered sacred Buddhist statues in the Mekong River. Today, it’s a cultural and spiritual landmark, surrounded by lush greenery,” Liny Liem says. 96 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh. National Museum Recommended for those passionate about art and history, it houses the world’s greatest collection of Khmer artefacts, including looted ones that have been returned to Cambodia after being lost for decades because of war and illicit trade. 13 Sangkat Chey Chumneas, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh. Tel: (855) 23 211 753

A Phnom Penh insider’s hot tips for the best places to eat, drink, shop and get pampered

Cambodia’s capital has become a hip place to visit. A local recommends where to dine, get pampered and buy gifts and souvenirs