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What are five-kernel mooncakes? A history of the protein-packed Mid-Autumn Festival treat

Rich in nuts and seeds, five-kernel mooncakes are making a comeback as a protein-packed alternative to have during the Mid-Autumn Festival

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Five-kernel mooncakes from the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui. We dive into the rich history of these “wuren” moocakes, from ancient origins to modern interpretations. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Lisa Cam

When you think of mooncakes, the ones that come to mind tend to be the classic sweet lotus paste versions with salted egg yolk, or maybe a more modern interpretation like one with a salty-sweet baked custard filling.

Historically, however, the first mooncakes were made with a mix of nuts and seeds. The five-kernel (wuren) mooncake – filled with ingredients including walnuts, almonds and sesame seeds – was considered the height of sophistication from the 1950s to the 1970s.

With traditional sweet mooncakes increasingly eschewed by the health-conscious, might this protein-packed version make a comeback?

Mooncake history

Five-kernel mooncakes originated from the Hu cakes introduced during the Han dynasty (206BC-AD220), when Chinese diplomat and explorer Zhang Qian brought back nuts, such as walnuts and sesame seeds, from the western regions, laying the foundation for their use in mooncakes.
Later, during the Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties, these small cakes filled with nuts became popular among the common people, gradually becoming associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Similar multi-nut-filled cakes appeared in Qing dynasty (1644-1912) publications such as the Chinese classic novel Dream of the Red Chamber and the gastronomical guide Recipes from the Garden of Contentment. Flaky mooncakes containing finely ground pine nuts, walnuts and melon seeds were mentioned, and it can be inferred that they were found in both the imperial court and local regions.

The five kernels symbolise completeness and harmony, making it a classic representative of Cantonese mooncakes. The typical kernels would include walnuts, almonds, olive kernels, melon seeds and sesame seeds, which symbolised the virtues of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom and trustworthiness – in that order.

Long before white lotus seed paste or modern snow-skin flavours took over the market, wuren was the undisputed king of mooncakes across mainland China and Hong Kong. In times of material scarcity, the calorie-dense components of rich nuts, Jinhua ham and cured pork fat were highly precious, luxury food items. Gifting wuren mooncakes was a massive sign of respect.

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