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How Peking duck got so famous and changed the world’s perception of Chinese cuisine

Richard Nixon’s televised China trip in 1972 was the first glimpse behind the ‘bamboo curtain’ for many and their first exposure to the dish

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Then US President Richard Nixon (right) and then Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai eat during Nixon’s official visit to China in 1972. Photo: Getty Images

Peking duck is always a crowd-pleaser when it is ordered for the table. However, what few may realise is that the global popularity of one of Chinese cuisine’s most well-known dishes is tied to one of the most landmark diplomatic milestones in modern history.

In 1972, Richard Nixon became the first American president to visit China, dissolving decades of icy relations between the two countries. The historic eight-day event was televised across the United States, giving millions an unprecedented glimpse into Chinese life.

In particular, the politicians’ elaborate state dinners were a culinary revelation, broadcast directly into living rooms and showing a culture that had been largely hidden behind the “bamboo curtain”.

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At the heart of this edible diplomacy was Peking duck, its glistening, mahogany skin presented as the height of Chinese culinary art. The world watched, captivated, as chefs carved the delicate meat tableside, wrapping it in thin pancakes with spring onions and hoisin sauce.
The signature Peking duck at Hong Kong’s Hutong restaurant. Photo: courtesy of Hutong
The signature Peking duck at Hong Kong’s Hutong restaurant. Photo: courtesy of Hutong

This was not the simplified, Westernised version of Chinese food many knew. This was the real thing: sophisticated, intricate and deeply symbolic of Beijing’s heritage.

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