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Where to eat near Hong Kong’s Central–Mid-Levels escalator: author’s top picks

Hong Kong-based author Ray Chan reveals his favourite restaurants around the Central–Mid-Levels escalator for wontons, wraps and more

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Wontons with noodles at Tsim Chai Kee Noodle, one of the restaurants that creative director and author Ray Chan recommends in Hong Kong. Photo: SCMP
Andrew Sun

Ray Chan, a creative director at an energy technology multinational based in Hong Kong, is also the author of a new Hong Kong-set novel, Escalate. He spoke to Andrew Sun.

At heart, I am a British-born lad raised in the sweaty chaos of my dad’s Chinese takeaway, where the air was thick with grease and the food did not mess about. I will take simple wontons over fancy, foamy stuff from a chemistry lab any day.

In my book, Escalate, I set three stories around the Mid-Levels escalator because there is nothing else in the world like it. It is a cross-cultural theme-park monorail, zigzagging up through different universes – 100-year-old herbal teahouses, churches, mosques, English pubs and Indian eateries. The escalator is also in my neighbourhood, so it shapes the way I fuel up.
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Starting near the bottom, La Petite Maison (1/F, H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central. Tel: 2887 1113) is my go-to spot for solid, upscale yet unpretentious dining. Although I wish they would bring back the Dover sole, the John Dory is delectable. Be sure to make room for their famous French toast and spiced ice cream.

Ray Chan is the author of Escalate, a new Hong Kong-set novel. Photo: Ray Chan
Ray Chan is the author of Escalate, a new Hong Kong-set novel. Photo: Ray Chan

Up a bit is Tsim Chai Kee Noodle (Shop B, Jade Centre, 98 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 2850 6471). No-nonsense aunties cram tourists onto shared benches, and the wontons are so massive they require the cranes on Elgin Street to lift them into your mouth.

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Farther south is Burger Circus (22 Hollywood Road, SoHo. Tel: 2878 7787). I am still flabbergasted at how the Black Sheep Restaurants group keeps getting it right. This place does proper American-style crispy streaky bacon.

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