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How does Maison Es, Hong Kong ‘Canto-French’ restaurant, continue to thrive?

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, chef Esther Sham’s Maison Es has survived while many other fine-dining eateries have collapsed

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Chef Esther Sham at work at Maison Es, which she opened in Hong Kong’s Wan Chai neighbourhood in 2015. She says giving up her goal of a Michelin star meant she could better concentrate on her staff and regular diners. Photo: Maison Es
Lisa Cam

It has no Michelin stars and has never ranked on lists such as Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, but Maison Es in Wan Chai celebrates its 10th anniversary this year having survived a host of challenges in Hong Kong that have seen many other similar fine-dining eateries close down. How did it manage this?

Opened by chef Esther Sham in 2015, the aesthetically pleasing restaurant welcomes guests with a cream-coloured bicycle with a basket of flowers at its entrance, while the general ambience is akin to walking into a friend’s cottage.

The tables are well spaced, meaning you are in little danger of overhearing other people’s conversations, and the menu is full of tried-and-true favourites that Sham designed herself.

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“I insist on my own style of Canto-French,” she says. “I know there was a time when serving multiple courses with tiny portions was trendy, but that was not me. I insist on hearty, well-executed comfort food. If I follow trends, then my restaurant will end when the trend dies.”

Wagyu Wellington stewed with chu hou, or fermented soy bean sauce, at Maison Es. Photo: Maison Es
Wagyu Wellington stewed with chu hou, or fermented soy bean sauce, at Maison Es. Photo: Maison Es

Sham started working as a model after graduating from the University of California, Irvine in the US. It was on a trip to Singapore that her eyes were opened to the world of gastronomy.

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