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How Thailand’s craft chocolate industry is raising the bar with sustainable practices

A bean-to-bar chocolate movement in Bangkok and beyond involving farmers, cafes and a top chef could set new standards for a global industry

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Chocolate by Pridi Cacaofevier, a small-batch producer in Bangkok. Thai craft chocolate is emerging as a niche industry that employs sustainable practices. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

When it comes to countries that produce chocolate, Switzerland and Belgium may be among the first to come to mind. But neither of them grow cacao, the fruit whose seeds are needed to make chocolate. In fact, 70 per cent of the world’s cacao comes from the Ivory Coast, in western Africa.

Few would think about Thailand, but the Asian country is emerging as a craft grower with a blossoming bean-to-bar movement.

Thailand’s relationship with cacao has been a long and rocky one.
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In the 17th century, Spanish galleons began transporting the crop from the Philippines to elsewhere in Southeast Asia – to Indonesia, India, Malaysia and finally Thailand, where it arrived in the early 1900s. Yet, unlike its regional neighbours, Thailand never became a major player in the global cocoa trade.

In 1952, the Thai government introduced subsidies to promote cacao as a lucrative export crop. But the initiative faltered as farmers found greater profits in rubber, palm oil and fruit.

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By the 1990s, annual production of cacao had dwindled to just 400 tonnes (440 tons), a drop in the bucket compared with regional giants like Indonesia.

Cacao pods at Suriya Farm in Chanthaburi, in eastern Thailand. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung
Cacao pods at Suriya Farm in Chanthaburi, in eastern Thailand. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung
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