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Lisa Cam

It is no secret that Hong Kong’s restaurant and bar industry is facing challenges – thank competition from nearby cities like Shenzhen and an uptick in post-Covid revenge travel for that.
Because of this, Hong Kong residents do not seem to be have much left to spend in the city’s restaurants, especially the fine-dining ones.
Still, as English naturalist Charles Darwin said: “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, not the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.”
Some restaurateurs in the city have taken this to heart and have found success by adapting to an increase in budget-conscious customers.
Chef Edward Voon, co-founder of fine-dining restaurant Auor in Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island, has launched a new programme called The Laksa Club Lunch.
The menu serves items such as laksa for HK$150 (US$19), Hainanese three-yellow chicken rice (HK$168), five-spice pork rolls (HK$58) and chargrilled Iberico pork skewers (HK$78).

While these items are pricier than you would find elsewhere, they represent a more than 60 per cent markdown compared to Auor’s previous lunch menu, priced at HK$468 for three courses.
Asked if he was worried about losing fine-dining prestige by providing a cheaper lunch, Voon says he does not believe this is a problem.
“Like all The Laksa Club Lunch offerings, my signature laksa noodles come with a touch of luxury,” says the executive chef.
“The laksa is authentic in the sense it’s made with the traditional ingredients including two kinds of noodles – egg noodles and rice vermicelli for a satisfying textural contrast.
“Yet it is also contemporary in its light, yet spicy flavour profile, as the soup base is simmered with lobster and shrimp for over six hours, mixed with laksa leaves.”

Auor remains a fine-dining establishment for dinner service, but the change in the lunch offerings has attracted a lot more patrons. “It’s amazing to see many new guests from all walks of life coming in to experience it,” Voon says.
Meanwhile, in Central, the open-fire concept Fireside has also overhauled its original offering – a set menu of eight courses for dinner that set you back at least HK$1,290.
“We found our guests were drawn to the ambience of our restaurant by the scent of burning charcoal and wood, and the butcher room steaks display,” executive chef Jaime Ortolá says. “One anticipates a masterful grilling experience, but our initial multi-course set menu did not meet these expectations.
“Often times, they were disappointed by the beef course which was a very delicate offering in the set menu.”
When Ortolá was promoted to executive chef, he made the switch to an à la carte menu, increased the meat offerings and began allowing customers to pick their own steaks, introduced sharing dishes, and began letting diners make their own s’mores for dessert.
The move to a more casual menu has worked. “Ever since making these changes, we’ve [built] a loyal, repeat customer business. We rebuilt our business organically, primarily through word of mouth.”

It is not just fine dining that needs to adapt. American-Italian diner Frank’s in Central, known for its pasta and pizzas, has added a B-boy Special menu that includes an antipasti salad, a tomato fritto and a choice of a simple pasta like spaghetti aioli, or radiatori with pesto plus a beer, for only HK$98.
Asked why a casual diner like his needs to offer even lower prices to attract customers, chef and owner Vinny Lauria says he is catering to his clientele of breakdancers, or B-boys.
“We’ve become a favourite hang-out for some of Hong Kong’s best B-boys and B-girls and we wanted to make sure that we gave them some love. We feel like Frank’s is really for everyone,” Lauria says.
“Our guests seem to be loving it. We offer the option to go upstairs to the dining room for a more premium dining experience or hang out downstairs at the ground floor bar, listen to music and have some drinks and lunch or dinner in a much more casual environment,” he adds.
Lauria, like Voon, agrees that this pivot in strategy has attracted new customers.
“We have definitely opened ourselves up to a whole new clientele who wouldn’t have necessarily been interested in having the full Frank’s Italian-American dining experience, but just prefer a simple but delicious meal in a super cool venue.”


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What do Hong Kong fine-dining restaurants like Auor (whose laksa lunch offering is pictured) and Charles Darwin have in common? They both believe in adapting to survive. Photo: Auor 

Chef Edward Voon has launched a new programme called The Laksa Club Lunch at Auor. Photo: Auor

Chef Jaime Ortolá made the switch to an à la carte menu at Fireside to draw more patrons. Photo: Fireside

Vinny Lauria is the culinary head of the Red Sauce Hospitality group, behind venues such as Fini’s and Franks in Hong Kong. Photo: Vinny Lauria

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Fish-flavored eggplant stew from Café Hunan, a favourite of Victoria Tang. Photo: Café Hunan

TV anchor Victoria Tang shares her favourite Hong Kong restaurants for Cantonese, Chiu Chow, Hunanese, kosher and vegetarian food. Photo: Victoria Tang

A buttery toasted bun from Capital Café in Wan Chai. Photo: Instagram/@cktong

Fourfinger threadfin at Choong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant, in Kowloon City. Photo: Choong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant

Fish-flavoured aubergine stew at Café Hunan, in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Café Hunan

The relaxing interior of Sujata Café, in Kwun Tong. Photo: Sujata Café

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Park Seung-hun is the head chef at Hansik Goo in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Photo: Nicholas Wong Sixteen Photography

Beef brisket noodles at Kau Kee, in Hong Kong’s Central neighbourhood. Photo: May Tse

Iberico char siu barbecue pork with honey sauce and pork belly at Moon Bay Chinese Cuisine, in Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Photo: Susan Jung

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Oliver Li with his mentor Siu Hin-chi of Ying Jee Club, who helped on the menu at Li’s restaurant Jee. Photo: Nicholas Wong/Sixteen Photography

Jee’s three scallion grouper was inspired by a three scallion lobster dish at sister restaurant Ying Jee Club. Photo: Nicholas Wong/Sixteen Photography

Softshell turtle jelly with caviar is an example of how chef Oliver Li has fused his experience and knowledge of both French and Chinese cuisine. Photo: Nicholas Wong/Sixteen Photography

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Food & Drink

Competition from Shenzhen and more spending on holidays leaves Hong Kong residents less to spend on fine dining. Restaurants have responded


Competition from Shenzhen and more spending on holidays leaves Hong Kong residents less to spend on fine dining. Restaurants have responded.
