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Andrew Sun

In with the new, out with the old.
With the New Year, we expect new ideas and exciting prospects in the food and hospitality industry. It also means good riddance to stale trends and tired ploys. Here are a few things I would like to see less of in 2024:
1. Alternative proteins
Vegetarian dining has come a long way from tofu and lentils. Bio-entrepreneurs have now created assorted plant-based “meats”, so even vegans can partake in hamburgers, chicken salads, minced pork and seafood.

The results do resemble, and almost taste like, the real thing. But does anyone really like or want it? As a meat eater, if I’m taking a break from beef I’m not going to order imitation beef. I’ll just get aubergine Parmesan.
Most fake animal proteins are also highly processed and full of sodium. If you think they’re a healthy option, think again.
Why the entire menu changes every two weeks at Chef Tam’s Seasons in Macau
2. Four-hands dinners
Yes, menu collaborations between top chefs always feel interesting and special. But the reality is, cooks are consolidating for events because restaurants are having trouble finding patrons. They need to generate buzz, come up with gimmicks, and conjure any kind of magic to put bums on seats.
Four-handers on their own aren’t necessarily a bad thing, but let’s hope this year, chefs won’t have time to hang out at their mate’s place because they’re busy enough in their own kitchen.

3. Tired of truffles
Sorry, I’m just not a fancy fungi guy. Truffles, of both the white and black variety, used to be such an exclusive ingredient. It was a rare luxury to even get a whiff or taste of them.
Not any more. Now every burger shack, deep-fryer stall, and pretentious cha chaan teng can add a dash of truffle oil to “elevate” their mash potato, egg sandwich and fried rice.
Worse, when its intense aroma becomes ubiquitous – multicourse truffle tasting menu? No thanks – it can become unbearable. Some things are just better in moderation.

4. Let’s (not) get loud
A lot of chefs secretly want to be rock stars. They got the piercings, tattoos, and try to make their place a hip hang-out. Mostly, they show off their musical cred with curated playlists, cranked to the proverbial 11 on the speaker.
I love G-funk grooves, Rage Against The Machine riffs, and rude boy riddims as much as anyone, but I DON’T NEED TO HAVE IT BLASTED AT MAXIMUM VOLUME during dinner. It’s especially annoying if the meal was supposed to be convivial and I can’t even hear a friend ask for the salt.

5. Eating on stools (or lounge sofas)
As an example of form over function, high stools and low sofas don’t belong in proper eating establishments. I’m sure designers think they look cool and give any space a different spatial dimension, but for many customers, they are uncomfortable as hell.
Unless you’re a giant, no one likes climbing up to sit on a high stool. The worst is when your legs end up dangling in mid air. As for soft couches, do you lean forward or lie back on them during a meal? It’s just an impossible setting for real adults to enjoy a proper meal.

6. Tomahawk steaks
It’s 2024. Enough of this novelty, showboating cut of beef. It’s basically a rib-eye with the extended bone attached. For that privilege, you get to pay an extra 30 per cent on your bill.
When it gained popularity in the early 2000s, it was a fun spectacle. Now it’s banal Instagram fodder. Unless you’re saving the bone for a German shepherd at home, there’s no good reason for anyone wanting the full Tomahawk.


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Food and Drinks

6 annoying food trends I’d like to see less of in 2024, from truffle on everything to tomahawk steaks and fake meats

Tomahawk steaks are an overpriced gimmick that need taking off menus. Photo: Shutterstock

This year, it’s time to cancel some of 2023’s annoying trends and gimmicks: from throwing truffle on everything (above) to outsized tomahawk steaks, four-hands meals and “rock-star chefs”.

A Beyond Burger: why would I eat fake meat if I want to take a break from real meat? 

Cooks seem to be putting truffles (or truffle oil) on everything. Photo: Shutterstock

Chefs may think they’re rock stars, but can they spare us the loud music? Photo: Shutterstock

Restaurants need to get rid of those high stools and low sofas and let their customers eat in comfort. Photo: Shutterstock

Tomahawk steaks were fun in 2000, but are basically overpriced rib-eyes. Photo: Shutterstock

At Hong Kong traditional Italian restaurant Sabatini’s new IFC branch, head chef Marco Antonio Li Voti will make things ‘a little bit different’

Dried marinated wagyu beef, horseradish mayonnaise and wild rocket served with herbs and tomato, at Sabatini’s in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Marco Antonio Li Voti, chef de cuisine at Sabatini’s in IFC Mall. The chef, who makes up for his lack of traditional Italian cooking experience with passion and creativity, will help make the offshoot ‘a little bit different’ to the 31-year-old original. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Sabatini’s Tsim Sha Tsui branch chef de cuisine Claudio Favero (left) and Li Voti, who he appointed to lead Sabatini’s new branch in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Bigoli in traditional duck ragu Veneti style, at Sabatini’s in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Li Voti’s creativity makes him right for the job despite his lack of experience in traditional Italian restaurants, according to Favero. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Sushi, stunning views, the best snails: where a Hong Kong-born Canadian likes to go for food and atmosphere in the city

Sushi set at Nobu at The Regent, one of Flora Ma’s go-to restaurants in Hong Kong. 

Flora Ma is the founder of vodka soda brand Only Beverages. Ma, who has a thing for Japanese food, shares her favourite Hong Kong restaurants. Photo: Flora Ma

Marinated black cod from Zuma. Photo: Zuma

Spicy Tuna Crunchy at Tokio Joe in Central. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

Korean fried cauliflower at Yardbird in Sheung Wan. Photo: SCMP

Carbone’s spicy rigatoni vodka. Photo: Instagram/@carbonehongkong

Seared scallop in Pixian spicy soba noodles at Hutong. 

A dish at Ho Lee Fook. Photo: Ho Lee Fook

Supersized and cheap, eclectic and exciting: why I love food shopping abroad and bringing home random tasty treats

A store on a street in Vietnam. Visiting a country’s supermarkets and convenience stores tells you a lot about its culture and how its citizens live. What’s more, you can compare prices with those back home and even find some tasty souvenirs. Photo: Shutterstock

Multipacks of USDA prime beef New York steaks at a Costco. Photo: Shutterstock

Donkeys carry Coca-Cola bottles in Meknes, Morocco. Coca-Cola is ubiquitous in most of the world. Photo: Shutterstock

Halloumi cheese may be rare and expensive in Hong Kong, but it’s cheap and plentiful in other nations. Photo: Shutterstock

A woman serves traditional Vietnamese banh mi. Perfect to eat after a flight home. Photo: Shutterstock

Lifestyle

Food & Drink

Lists

From alternative proteins to unwieldy tomahawk steaks and the overuse of truffle, here are six food trends that need to be consigned to history
With the new year, it’s time to set aside these stale gimmicks and tired ploys to get us to post on social media and part with our money


This year, it’s time to cancel some of 2023’s annoying trends and gimmicks: from throwing truffle on everything to outsize tomahawk steaks, four-hand meals and ‘rock-star chefs’.


Trending in Hong Kong

Hong Kong Fine Dining

Expresses the views, ideas and conclusions of the author. (Eg. Enough of Crazy Rich Asians, think of crazy poor Hongkongers.)


Column

Mouthing Off

Mouthing Off | 6 annoying food trends I’d like to see less of in 2024, from truffle on everything to tomahawk steaks and fake meats

From alternative proteins to unwieldy tomahawk steaks and the overuse of truffle, here are six food trends that need to be consigned to history With the new year, it’s time to set aside these stale gimmicks and tired ploys to get us to post on social media and part with our money

1. Alternative proteins

2. Four-hands dinners

From alternative proteins to unwieldy tomahawk steaks and the overuse of truffle, here are six food trends that need to be consigned to history

With the new year, it’s time to set aside these stale gimmicks and tired ploys to get us to post on social media and part with our money