Mouthing Off | Striploin with a side of sexism: why steakhouses need to lose their men’s club vibe
- Steakhouses can be expensive and intimidating places, and often feel like exclusive men’s clubs
- As casual steak-frites restaurants become more popular, those old-school establishments need to take note
As a kid, I used to think steakhouses were the most intimidating of places. The typical old-school grill room is a dimly lit cavern, guarded by a snooty-looking maitre’ d who, with one glance and a dismissive wave, could banish you. Even though I was let in, I never felt relaxed.
Back then, those oak-panelled dens of meat, martinis and manly men were considered the height of fancy dining. As a pimply preteen, I knew nothing about steak appreciation. The few times my uncle took us to these places, I insisted my beef be very well done. I’m not eating a slab of red meat that’s still bloody!
To be honest, I would have been happier with hamburger and fries because I couldn’t tell the difference between T-bone, rib-eye, filet mignon or sirloin. And prime rib is another word for steak that’s not been cut into slices, right?
Not only were steakhouses daunting because they were the most expensive restaurants, but they were always filled with executive types and old guys who ordered entire bottles of wine. As a young lightweight, the idea of consuming a bottle seemed preposterous, especially since I could barely stomach a few sips out of my glass.
Even today, steakhouses project an aura of discriminating swank and exclusivity. But they are slowly changing. For one, the days of a strict dress code are over. Smart-casual is now generally acceptable attire. Who wants to wear a jacket and tie during a Hong Kong summer?
Even so, I’m not ballsy enough to try entering the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse in flip flops and shorts. Maybe La Vache, though. Casual steak-frites restaurants have certainly helped to take the starch out of white-tablecloth rib-eye dinners.