Hong Kong cheongsam maker gives the Chinese dress a modern makeover with her funky brand

From snake-themed events to whether your luck is in: discover all you need to know about the coming Lunar New Year in our Year of the Snake 2025 series. Chocolate Tsang opens the door to her Hong Kong studio wearing one of her handmade cheongsam, the Chinese-style, form-hugging dress characterised by a high collar, short sleeves and side slits. Her cheongsam’s pattern – a bold display of planets and stars – is the perfect example of how the traditional garment can get a modern twist. “Come in and swap your shoes for these,” says Tsang, placing a pair of soft slippers on the floor, as two purring cats rub against her legs. Much like Tsang’s welcome, her Stand Tall D studio in Kwai Chung, in Hong Kong’s New Territories, is warm and comforting, the space bathed in soft lighting. Tsang founded the made-to-measure brand in 2018 and Lunar New Year is the busiest time. But while the cheongsam – also known as the qipao – is a popular dress worn during the festive celebrations, the 29-year-old Hongkonger says it is suitable all year round. “It can be worn for special events or if you just want to chill,” says Tsang, a graduate of Hong Kong’s now-closed Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). Introduced by China’s ruling Manchus during the Qing dynasty (1644-1911), the cheongsam is today one of the most recognised Chinese dress styles. Ubiquitous in films and television as a symbol of femininity and status, the style gained popularity among Shanghai’s upper classes in the 1920s. In Hong Kong, the cheongsam took off in the 1960s following an influx of Shanghainese people escaping China’s Cultural Revolution. In 2017, Hong Kong’s cheongsam-making technique was added to the city’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list as a way to keep the craft alive. Like many time-honoured traditions, the art of cheongsam tailoring is fading, which makes Tsang’s work even more important. And her standards are high. “Our tailoring is a very personal, one-of-a-kind experience and it’s important to communicate with the client and understand what their lifestyle is like.” Stand Tall D’s website has detailed instructions and videos on how to order a cheongsam to one’s liking, which is great for overseas clients. Those seeking a more intimate, bespoke experience can visit the studio, where Tsang and her team take measurements that go beyond basics like height, bust, waist and hips to include 20 body measurement points. Desired style details such as collar height, as well as the length of the sleeves, slit and dress, are also gathered, with extra studio visits for adjustments a possibility. “The minimum time to make a custom cheongsam is about a month,” Tsang says. It is a time-consuming process, but that is the point. Stand Tall D is all about providing the sort of personalised tailoring experience that existed in 1960s Hong Kong when life moved at a slower pace and before fast fashion entered the vernacular. View this post on Instagram A post shared by 企直啲 Stand Tall D (@standtalld) Tsang not only thinks about the pattern and style of a cheongsam but peels back the layers of the person for whom she is making it. Precision is key. For in-person fittings for special occasion dresses, Tsang asks customers to wear the exact underwear and footwear that they will wear on the special day. “It is important to wear the shapewear – the bra, the Spanx, the stockings and shoes – that you plan to wear on the special day because all this impacts the bust, waist, hip, thigh and length measurements. A sports bra will produce different measurements to a bra from Victoria’s Secret.” Tsang says her love for the cheongsam was ignited after attending a workshop hosted by Yan Ka-man, one of Hong Kong’s oldest master tailors of the garment. Yan made cheongsams for Hong Kong film studio Shaw Brothers Pictures and broadcaster TVB. Famous actors including Tang Wei, Carina Lau, Michelle Yeoh and Law Kar-ying have all worn his creations. He also crafted cheongsams for Wong Kar-wai’s 2000 film In the Mood for Love starring Maggie Cheung and Tony Leung Chiu-wai. In the film, set in 1960s British Hong Kong, Cheung wears 20 different cheongsam, from bright florals to cool geometrics. “I was very lucky to be able to learn from Yan,” says Tsang of her master, who is still tailoring at almost 90 years of age. It is a challenging craft to master, Tsang says. “The authentic cheongsam-making craft is one of the most difficult women’s wear you can learn. If you can make a cheongsam, you can make almost anything.” When asked about her favourite cheongsam, Tsang picks one from a rack and carefully removes its protective cover to reveal a stunning navy lace piece. Tsang handcrafted it while working with Yan. “It fills me with warmth when I see or touch this piece … I guess that’s what physical textile does to us crafters. Words cannot express it.” Tsang’s love for cheongsam is clear: she even describes the garments in her studio as her children. One rack holds some of her most recent creations, which include one with a funky green and black diamond print and another covered with question marks. The fun, contemporary patterns know no limits and range from potato chips and pomegranates to cats and corn cobs. She also has an impressive collection of cheongsam made by other people. These are not for sale but can serve as inspiration for clients. They include vintage pieces, including some from more than 300 donated by a Shanghainese woman who, when she was in Hong Kong during the 1960s, only wore cheongsam. There is also a rack of fabric, much of it sourced from the now-closed fabric market in Sham Shui Po, Kowloon. Tsang’s love for nostalgic Hong Kong is obvious, starting with the old-school neon light at the studio’s front door. There is a vintage glass cabinet filled with pretty little items like silver hair combs and retro figurines, as well as a selection of pankou, the traditional knotted buttons used in the making of cheongsam. On a shelf is a selection of collars of varying heights and colours, including one extra-high formal style. “This was worn by movie stars like Maggie Cheung.” For a modern, relaxed vibe, there is a “chill collar”, as Tsang describes it. “It is not so high and is best for everyday wear. A gal has got to breathe.” Stand Tall D, 26/F, The Galaxy, 313 Castle Peak Rd, Kwai Chung, by appointment only.

Hong Kong cheongsam maker gives the Chinese dress a modern makeover with her funky brand

For her cheongsam – also known as qipao – Chocolate Tsang thinks not only about pattern and style but also the character of her clients