Drink in Focus: Gyokuro Melon Punch at Fello

A strong example from Fello’s inaugural menu is the Gyokuro Melon Punch, which, according to Tai, was developed long before Fello’s opening. The drink combines gyokuro tea, gin, fresh honeydew melon and yuzu juices as well as Pernod. “Gyokuro Melon Punch started from the idea of creating something refreshing but with a little more depth as you drink it,” Tai says.

Absinthe, gin and lemon are usually seen together in the Corpse Reviver No 2, but Tai explains that the inspiration is loose at best. “There is some inspiration, particularly in the structure of the drink, but we aren’t trying to create a direct twist on the classic. We used that structure and rebuilt it around the flavours we wanted to express.”

The tea and the melon anchor this drink, lending it pleasant sweetness. Gyokuro – whose kanji translates to “jade dew” in Japanese and Chinese – is a green tea grown in the shade and brewed at lower temperatures. “It’s delicate,” Tai says, “but at the same time it has a beautiful umami and savoury quality. We liked that contrast with the melon. It gives the drink more depth and makes the finish much more interesting.”

“We actually don’t have an exact spec for this drink, because fresh melon changes from batch to batch. Some can be sweeter or more aromatic than others, so we taste and adjust accordingly. The melon gives the drink its fruitiness and familiarity while yuzu brings brightness and acidity. Gyokuro sits underneath and adds depth and umami, and the anise is really there as an accent,” Tai says.

Indeed, only a few dashes of absinthe are used in the drink, as a flavourful surprise. “The little touch of anise gives the drink another dimension, and works surprisingly well with the freshness of the melon. Maybe that’s also why you don’t see it as often in modern cocktails, because it’s quite easy for it to take over,” Tai explains.