A battle royale is unfolding on the streets of Hong Kong, with a slew of speciality stores offering hand-crushed artisan lemon teas to a city nostalgic for its favourite citrusy tipple.
Since 2016, Sydney’s Hong Kong Bing Sutt has been serving dishes such as claypot rice and fish ball noodles. To migrants from the city it offers a reminder of home, to others a slice of its culture.
Hong Kong-style tea cafes in Australia, with their neon, shop signs, even a replica minibus and tram, and above all their food and drinks, offer comfort to homesick migrants – and something different for the locals.