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Do beauty and spa routines secretly control our lives? This South Korean artist asks the question

In Geumhyung Jeong’s recent exhibition ‘Spa & Beauty’, the performance artist and choreographer explores beauty and body-care products, and our complicated relationships to them

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Geumhyung Jeong is known for her creative exploration of the relationship between the body and its associated objects. Photo: Kanghyuk Lee

Maybe this is just me, but spas are stressful. Like everything else in my adult life, I blame childhood trauma – my mother used to drag me from one beauty salon to another on her sporadic trips from Singapore, where she lived, to visit me in Hong Kong. She was concerned that I lacked a strong feminine presence, one palatable for a male gaze during my crucial teenage years (I was raised by a grandmother who had an arranged marriage and worked in a factory). What I remember most about my mother’s visits was not her presence, but the sensation of being confined to a salon chair as someone fixed my untidy eyebrows underneath blinding white lights.

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Then there’s also the warped time-space of the spa itself: the soundtrack of soft jazz that commands us to calm down, the incidental intimacy between you and the stranger to whose touch you have consented to, the instructions to just relax and let yourself be pampered. Who is really in control here: me, the paying customer, lying down and naked, or the beautician-masseuse, who could do anything to my face and my body for an hour?

Geumhyung Jeong’s Spa & Beauty exhibition was held at Tin Wan gallery in Hong Kong. Photo: Kiang Malingue
Geumhyung Jeong’s Spa & Beauty exhibition was held at Tin Wan gallery in Hong Kong. Photo: Kiang Malingue

These were the questions running through my head when, on a Saturday afternoon in December, in an industrial building unit that houses Kiang Malingue’s Tin Wan gallery, Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong announces to the crowd, “Today I’m going to demonstrate spa and beauty.”

She’s in a forest-green gown and red slippers, and there are about 50 of us at the gallery for the closing performance of the week-long exhibition titled “Spa & Beauty”. The space is strewn with uncanny objects and contraptions: a bottle of “foot shampoo”, flesh-coloured mannequins with bristles protruding from their chest, a glossy bust with sharp toe brushes for arms, a bathtub with a bearded man plopped at its head so the tub resembles an extension of his body.

Over the course of half an hour or so, Jeong approaches several of these figures; she caresses them, strips down to a neon-blue and yellow bikini and rubs herself against their rough, spiny surfaces in sensual, increasingly acrobatic movements. At one point, she hoists herself above an inanimate body on an orange rescue sling strop. We move through the room without a sound, and some viewers smile hesitantly, unsure how to react. Jeong continues to play the role of the masseuse, bringing to the forefront the erotic subtext of the kneading and stroking that takes place on the massage table.
Geumhyung Jeong’s Spa & Beauty exhibition was a play on irony and the absurd. Photo: Kiang Malingue
Geumhyung Jeong’s Spa & Beauty exhibition was a play on irony and the absurd. Photo: Kiang Malingue
There is something clinical, almost menacing, about the mechanical swing set in one of the installations, and the solemn, affectless demeanour Jeong maintains throughout her performance renders it less a soothing set of motions than a re-enactment of medical procedures, like a student conducting CPR on a dummy. That Jeong plays it straight, in a show clearly intended to be ironic, amplifies the absurdity. She seems to be asking: is grooming not simply a series of convoluted gestures that, at the end of it, promises to turn us into sexual objects? And similarly, the objects in the room can be read as provocations: if we were going to put snail essence on our faces or take Ozempic, why not scrub the gaps between our toes while we’re at it?
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