Insiders’ guide to Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon
The tiny Himalayan kingdom has plenty to energise visitors after any number of breathtaking hikes

To help visitors find their way in and around Thimphu, Paro and Punakha, the three major centres of the tiny kingdom sandwiched between India and China, we asked three insiders for their recommendations.
Spiritual awakening

“Everyone visits the Punakha Dzong [a dzong is a fortress-monastery], but the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten is a must-see when you’re in Punakha,” says Punap Ugyen Wangchuk, photographer and author of Authentic Bhutanese Cookbook (2010). This 30-metre-tall hilltop monument, commissioned by the mother of King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk, offers panoramic views of the Mo Chhu River valley and surrounding mountains. It’s about an hour’s hike from Yebesa village.
“It’s just here that you’ll find representations of [human] phalluses, not at any other monasteries or temples,” says Tshering Denkar, Bhutan’s first female travel blogger and vlogger. “It’s a really powerful temple because we believe it blesses couples who are struggling to conceive children, and a lot of Bhutanese go there.”
Asha Kama Wangdi, one of Bhutan’s most accomplished artists, believes that “Paro is very spiritual”, not least because of the Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest Monastery), Bhutan’s most popular tourist attraction.