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Insiders’ guide to Canggu, Bali, home to some of the hottest beach clubs

Where to eat, drink and work out in Bali’s most popular beach town

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Caravan beach club in Berawa, Canggu. Photo: courtesy Caravan
Ian Lloyd Neubauer
Canggu in Bali is a 5km-long strip of black sand surf beaches backlit by the biggest and most ostentatious beach clubs in the world. Behind them lies a maze of streets and alleyways lined with an ever-changing smorgasbord of cafes, restaurants, bars, gyms, nightclubs, massage and tattoo parlours, boutiques and boutique hotels.
A barefoot surfer walking to the beach in Canggu. Photo: Ian Neubauer
A barefoot surfer walking to the beach in Canggu. Photo: Ian Neubauer

To help us navigate these complex warrens, we asked for tips from three well-connected locals: Theodora Hurustiati, an Indonesian culinary instructor and consultant; Hasianti Deamita, a marketing and public relations specialist, also Indonesian; and Jeremy Louin, a real-estate agent from France.

Where to flex

Muay Thai training at Soma Fight Club. Photo: @somafightclub/Instagram
Muay Thai training at Soma Fight Club. Photo: @somafightclub/Instagram

Working out is part and parcel of the Canggu experience.

“There’s a gym, Pilates studio or padel ball court on nearly every corner,” says Louin, who managed boxing gyms before pivoting into real estate. Now he works out at Soma Fight Club, a boxing, Muay Thai, kickboxing and jiu-jitsu gym on Jalan Raya Canggu.
“They have a floor dedicated to boxing, another for grappling and a warehouse-size training gym with pull-up bars, medicine balls and crossfit equipment,” he says. “Around the corner is an even bigger gym, Nirvana.

“At Soma the focus is on training but at Nirvana, it’s more about the healthy lifestyle. They have a co-working space, juice bar, kitchen, a pool and lots of equipment and fitness classes. It’s very popular with the influencers.”

A sunset game of beach volleyball. Photo: Getty Images
A sunset game of beach volleyball. Photo: Getty Images
Soma charges 2.9 million rupiah (US$175) per month or 300,000 rupiah (US$18) for a day pass. Nirvana costs slightly more, but there’s a more affordable and convenient way for holidaymakers to workout in Bali, says Hurustiati.
“Most of the popular fitness and sports clubs in Canggu are part of ClassPass, an app that lets you buy passes to different studios and gyms and it costs about half of the door price,” she says. “My favourite yoga teacher is Maximilien from France. I love his style, he’s quite spiritual but doesn’t try to be a guru. With ClassPass I can go to his classes no matter where he teaches; some days he’s at Empowered Bali and on other days he teaches at The Path.”

Where to eat

Japanese fusion restaurant and cocktail bar, Billy Ho. Photo: Will Meyrick
Japanese fusion restaurant and cocktail bar, Billy Ho. Photo: Will Meyrick

For breakfast, Hurustiati doesn’t stray far from her home in Pererenan, an upmarket seaside village on the western fringe of Canggu.

“Emerson, a baker from the Philippines, honed his expertise in America. His cafe is called Baro,” she says. “I think he makes the best sourdough in Bali, though I also go there for the sausage rolls and empanadas.

“Right next door is another great bakery, called 7.AM, that has a wider selection of goodies. I love their goat cheese quiche and maritozzi, an Italian pastry made with brioche buns filled with whipped cream.”

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When Louin grabs lunch, it needs to be fast, healthy and delicious. “There’s this popular place called Warung Dua near my office in [the satellite suburb of] Umalas,” he says. “It’s a gentrified version of your traditional Indonesian warung, where the food is pre-cooked and displayed behind a glass counter. You choose a plate of different things: rice, fish, curries, steamed vegetables. They have Western things, too: potato gratin, schnitzel, lasagne and Greek salad. It’s cheap. A big beautiful plate is like 100,000 rupiah.”

Most of Deamita’s culinary recommendations revolve around her sweet tooth, starting with her morning coffee at Projects Coffee, on Jalan Nelayan.

Barō Bakery serves the best sourdough in Bali, says Theodora Hurustiati. Photo: Ian Neubauer
Barō Bakery serves the best sourdough in Bali, says Theodora Hurustiati. Photo: Ian Neubauer

“They have this thing called a ‘dirty coffee’,” she says, “a glass of creamy chilled milk where they pour a shot or two of hot espresso over it. You don’t mix it, you just sip it slowly. The combination is so smooth and addictive.”

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