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Insiders guide on what to see, eat and do in Cambodia’s Phnom Penh

Rising from the ashes of its troubled past, the Cambodian capital now boasts coffee shops, hip bars, eateries and arts venues

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The Moonlight Pavilion at 
the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh. Photo: Getty Images

Phnom Penh is a city on the move – upwards. But although the increasing number of upscale sky bars afford a bird’s-eye view of the ever rising skyline, it’s the Cambodian capital’s backstreets where the action is.

Founded in 1865 under French rule, Phnom Penh earned itself the moniker Pearl of Asia due to its sweeping boulevards, colonial, art deco and new Khmer architecture and, later, a thriving rock ’n’ roll scene. Its heyday, however, came to an abrupt end when, in April 1975, the Khmer Rouge regime took power and evacuated the city.
Bat Muk Yu has modernised the traditional Cambodian beer garden vibe. Photo: Bat Muk Yu/Facebook
Bat Muk Yu has modernised the traditional Cambodian beer garden vibe. Photo: Bat Muk Yu/Facebook

The capital has since rebuilt itself and today quirky coffee shops, hip bars and eateries serving food from across the globe stand shoulder to shoulder with contemporary arts venues.

Three residents – Dina Chhan, a contemporary artist and sculptor; Australian journalist and author Luke Hunt; and American musician Summer Lee Carlson – introduce us to their Phnom Penh.

River life

For a first taste of the city, Chhan recommends heading to Sisowath Quay. At night, the riverbank springs to life as locals stroll and exercise on the wide promenade that flanks the Tonlé Sap and offers views over the confluence of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong and Bassac rivers.
A fishing boat travels along the Mekong River at sunrise in Phnom Penh. Photo: AFP
A fishing boat travels along the Mekong River at sunrise in Phnom Penh. Photo: AFP
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