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Royal Indian hosts offer luxurious introduction to heritage-rich former kingdoms

India’s erstwhile royals are opening their palaces and using their influence to attract tourists and promote the heritage of their historical kingdoms

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Belgadia Palace in Mayurbhanj, India. Photo: Handout

Sinewy young men clad in dhotis and wielding shields and swords stomp their feet as they move to the beat of drums around the gardens of the Belgadia Palace.

The Mayurbhanj Chhau, a dance that dates back to the 18th century and is influenced by martial arts and folk customs, is one of several traditions belonging to this part of eastern India that are showcased to guests staying at the royal palace-turned-boutique hotel.

Situated in Baripada, a small town in Odisha state, the palace was built in 1804 and is run by Akshita Manjari Bhanj Deo, 30, and her sister, Mrinalika Bhanj Deo, 32, the 48th generation of the Bhanja dynasty, rulers of the princely state of Mayurbhanj from about the 8th century to the late 1940s, when royalty had to relinquish their titles following Indian independence.
Akshita (left) and Mrinalika Bhanj Deo of the Belgadia Palace. Photo: Handout
Akshita (left) and Mrinalika Bhanj Deo of the Belgadia Palace. Photo: Handout

Until then, India had been a land of kingdoms ruled over by luxury-loving nawabs and maharajas. After independence, in 1947, the royals had to cede power to the national government but were given funds and permission to manage their regions, a state of affairs that lasted until 1971.

That may have marked the end of an era, but many of the royal families still wield influence and own palaces and forts. The Bhanj Deo sisters are among a growing number of descendants of rulers who are converting their assets into luxury hotels or using their influence to develop other tourist attractions while helping to revive dying traditions and ancient arts.

The well-travelled siblings now run a hotel of 11 rooms and suites decorated in bright reds, greens and blues, which lie beyond a marble corridor festooned with vintage mirrors, chandeliers and sepia portraits of royal ancestors, and up a dark mahogany staircase. They opened the accommodation to paying guests in 2019.

A sitting room in the 200-year-old Belgadia Palace, in Baripada, Odisha. Photo: Handout
A sitting room in the 200-year-old Belgadia Palace, in Baripada, Odisha. Photo: Handout

“Our primary motivation was to bring Mayurbhanj […] into the spotlight,” says Mrinalika, who in 2014 returned to India from New York, in the United States, where she worked for a fashion and fragrance label. “We wanted to share the rich history, vibrant culture and natural beauty of the region with the world, while creating opportunities for local artisans and the community.

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