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Trekking through Ladakh’s Markha region reveals its ancient appeal
Ancient art, stark beauty, crumbling architecture – and aching calves – are all encountered on a trek through Ladakh’s Markha region
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The view as we fly into Leh is black and white. White clouds, white snow and the black of exposed mountain tops. No sign of humanity, or indeed anything living at all.
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In the distance, peaks rise above the clouds in stately solemnity. Everest, maybe?
Two phones have been thrust to me from the middle and aisle seats, to record the scene below.
“I’ve never seen this much snow,” says the woman next to me.
As the plane descends into the capital of Ladakh, in the Indian-controlled Kashmir region, signs of life appear. Green slivers cut through the rock reveal themselves to consist of trees and fields that hug the banks of streams and rivers. Rooftop solar panels reflect the sun and, as we get closer still, the colourful flags and murals of the Buddhist gompas (spiritual compounds) further herald the presence of humanity.
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I am here to trek the Markha Valley, teahouse style; the perfect way to explore the mountains without needing survival skills or a backpack weighed down by tent, cooking utensils and food. Trekking poles for the steepest parts and a big hat for the ever-shining sun are the main essentials, along with a sleeping bag. Even in June the threat of snow is ever present, despite being at a considerably lower altitude than all that white stuff seen from the plane.
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