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Insiders’ guide to Malaysia’s island paradise, Langkawi: from beach eats to stunning mountain views and vibrant night markets

The largely undeveloped tropical getaway is a rare find – here’s how to get the best out of a trip and soak up its relaxed vibe

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Dream Forest, Langkawi. Photo: Dream Forest
Langkawi is Malaysia’s ultimate paradise getaway, a 320 sq km main island with sandy beaches, some of the world’s oldest rainforest and an eclectic mix of luxurious bolt-holes, backpacker inns and glamping locales.
Interviewees (from left to right) Narelle McMurtrie, Liz Tajuddin and Hussein Mohd Said. Photo: John Brunton
Interviewees (from left to right) Narelle McMurtrie, Liz Tajuddin and Hussein Mohd Said. Photo: John Brunton
To uncover the best that remarkably unspoilt Langkawi has to offer, we asked for tips from three islanders: Liz Tajuddin, who advises local start-ups and organises cultural events such as the annual Langkawi Writers’ Festival, and who moved from Kuala Lumpur nine years ago; Hussein Mohd Said, owner of jet-ski company Mega Water Sports; and Australian Narelle McMurtrie, who arrived in Langkawi 30 years ago and created the Bon Ton Resort, a collection of heritage Malay houses that also serves as a cultural hub.

What to do

Temurun Waterfall. Photo: Shutterstock
Temurun Waterfall. Photo: Shutterstock

While it is always tempting to just laze away the day on a palm-fringed beach, many visitors to Langkawi hike inland, to Seven Wells, the island’s most famous waterfall. But there is an easier alternative.

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“Temurun Waterfall is less well-known but also beautiful and just a short, 400-metre jungle walk from a car park,” says Said. “Across the road is Pantai Pasir Tengkorak, whose beach resort is sadly abandoned for the moment, but follow the path to the idyllic sandy beach and you can find some of the clearest turquoise water for snorkelling.”

Dream Forest is a new psychedelic sound-and-light show staged each night in the middle of the island. Even though it “sounds a bit kitsch”, says Tajuddin, “everyone who goes, comes back saying, ‘Wow!’

“It is the same for the [SkyCab] cable car up to the mountaintop SkyBridge walk. Many visitors knock it off their bucket list as ‘too touristy’, but once you are up on the summit, the views are a knockout. Just check the weather first, as it’s pointless going up if it will be covered in cloud.”

McMurtrie notes that her guests are increasingly interested in the new watersports on offer, “and the latest to check out is H2Ocean by Pantai Tanjung Rhu, where you can rent not just canoes and paddle boards, but water bicycles and cycle catamarans to explore the hidden coves along the coast of the [Unesco Global] GeoPark.”

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She also suggests visiting Langkawi’s capital, Kuah: “Spend half a day there and discover the best Chinese restaurants on the island, especially the traditional Weng Fung. Enjoy cocktails and an incredible selection of whiskies at Cellar Bank, then relax with a sundowner at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club, which looks exclusive but anyone can go in.”

Where else to eat and drink

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