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Patek Philippe, Cartier, F.P. Journe: why these collectors can’t stop buying

Explore horology through the eyes of Hong Kong timepiece obsessives Mervin Ling, Felicity Ng and Kai Huang

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Kai Huang’s collection includes a Cartier Cloche (left) and Cartier Ceinture (right). Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Cat NelsonandSumnima Kandangwa

Three vintage watch collectors share the origins of their passion and offer advice for those toying with starting their own timepiece trove.

Mervin Ling

Mervin Ling, watch collector and founder of the F.P. Journe Collectors’ Club in Carlyle & Co. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Mervin Ling, watch collector and founder of the F.P. Journe Collectors’ Club in Carlyle & Co. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

There is something very meditative about winding a watch for me. To those unfamiliar with the world of horology, it may seem as if collectors wear their timepieces purely as a status symbol or display of wealth, but that’s often not the case. At least not for me.

My fascination with watches began in childhood. My dad, who rarely wore accessories aside from a watch, and my mother, who wore a jewellery watch, instilled in me a quiet admiration for timepieces. I always dreamed of owning a watch of my own as an adult. My first serious piece was an IWC, gifted by my parents before I left for boarding school in the UK. I was 16 years old. I hardly ever went without it, though I eventually parted with it, finding it simply too large for my wrist – a lesson on personal taste that every collector learns with time.

Mervin Ling acquired his Cartier Baignoire Allongée via auction earlier this year. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Mervin Ling acquired his Cartier Baignoire Allongée via auction earlier this year. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

While I initially owned a few watches that I wore on rotation, it was during Covid-19, when I spent a lot of time on the internet watching videos on watch collections, that I really started looking at my collection and asking myself, “What do I actually like?” I know many collectors who chase newly released models without a guiding philosophy and end up amassing hundreds.

There are certain things I like to consider when I’m adding a piece, such as case shape, dial design and wearability. For example, the Cartier Baignoire Allongée I acquired via auction earlier this year; it’s very thin and has a curve that sits perfectly on the wrist. It’s also unisex, which matters because I wanted a Cartier that my wife and I could share. Plus, it’s rare enough to feel special but wearable enough to be enjoyed regularly. I don’t want a watch to just sit in a box; it has to be something I’ll wear.
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