This week in PostMag: HK’s underground ballroom scene and Chinese fine dining
From Lin Zihan’s innovative approach at Wild Yeast in Hangzhou to the art of voguing, identity and cultural shifts are themes explored this week
Over the decade I lived in mainland China, one of the most exciting things was witnessing the rise of a new generation of Chinese chefs. In 2013 Beijing, contemporary fine dining meant course after course generously showered in black truffle, accompanied by thick medallions of foie gras or, should the kitchen be quite forward-thinking, perhaps there would be hints of molecular gastronomy present on the plate. It was almost definitely Western or perhaps it was Dong Zhenxiang at Da Dong – most known for his roast duck but also one of the first Chinese chefs to weave in Western culinary influence.
Chinese cooking, as delicious, fascinating and boundless as I found it, seemed frozen in time. Masterful in its technique, complexity and artistry? Yes. “Authentic”? Yes. But where was the young energy looking to innovate, evolve and push the limits, especially in the world of high-end dining?
This changed over the years – and at “China speed”, no less. By 2017 and 2018, up-and-coming talent across the country was beginning to experiment with what a new way of Chinese cooking might look like. I found this thrilling.