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Old Hong Kong
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Hong Kong’s historical shops preserve city’s unique charm and craftsmanship

Old family-run establishments give the city its unique character and enthusiasts are recording their stories before it’s too late

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The vintage decor of Tai On Coffee and Tea on Canton Road, Yau Ma Tei, which opened in 1969,  remains intact. Photo: Eugene Chan
Christopher DeWolf
In 2018, when a wave of long-standing Hong Kong shops closed because of rising rents and owners taking their retirement, Ian Ma Kei-loc felt compelled to act. He began visiting old shops to speak to their owners and document their stories. “I just wanted to make a simple record in case they disappeared,” he says. “But I realised just one person was not enough.”

Today, Ma is joined by more than 10 others dedicated to recording the stories behind the family-run retail businesses that give much of Hong Kong its character. Their efforts can be found in a hefty illustrated book, Hong Kong Historical Shops, which profiles more than 40 businesses, in addition to the 28 already featured in a previous publication by the group in 2021.

Designed to resemble a paper shopping bag, the new volume contains stories of old shops, accompanied by evocative photographs by group member Easy Chan Yung-sang and reproductions of menus, packaging, signage and other graphic elements. The book is a testament to not only the historical but also the cultural value of small businesses.

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“The Hong Kong element is very important to us, not just the age of the shop,” says Ma, who works in finance.

Hong Kong Historical Shops collaborators Ian Ma (front), Easy Chan (far left), Josephine Tsui (second from right) and Tiffany Yeung, in Yeung’s Tai On Coffee and Tea. Photo: Eugene Chan
Hong Kong Historical Shops collaborators Ian Ma (front), Easy Chan (far left), Josephine Tsui (second from right) and Tiffany Yeung, in Yeung’s Tai On Coffee and Tea. Photo: Eugene Chan

“McDonald’s has been in Hong Kong for over 50 years, but we’re not going to interview them,” adds another group member, cafe owner Tiffany Yeung Chiu-yi. “It’s the sense of craftsmanship that’s important.”

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