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Editorial | Hong Kong should support its hawkers, not let them disappear

As an integral part of Hong Kong’s culinary culture, hawkers shouldn’t have to choose between retirement and the future of their business

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Ninety-two-year-old licensed hawker Chan Tak-ching tends to her stall in Hong Kong’s Lai Chi Kok district on July 7. Hong Kong should heed calls to revamp its rules governing hawker licences. Photo: Sun Yeung
Hong Kong is seeking to meet the demands of visitors for authentic experiences as it aims to offer “tourism everywhere.” One of the most appealing attractions remains the city’s traditional cuisine. But outdated policies and rigid regulations are threatening the existence of hawkers, an iconic feature of what the Tourism Board describes as “Hong Kong’s diverse culinary culture”.
The absurdity of the rules was highlighted by a Post story about a 92-year-old itinerant hawker who cannot retire because this would spell the end for her business.

Chan Tak-ching, like all other such licensees, is required to be at her stall at all times and is the only person allowed to conduct sales. This means she is out all day in the summer’s searing heat.

The hawker would like to pass the licence on to her experienced helpers. This would be a natural step in most other businesses. But itinerant hawker licences cannot be transferred. This inevitably means they will, in time, disappear. The policy dates back to 1972, when the government stepped in to regulate hawkers. At that time, the position was very different, with itinerant and fixed-pitch hawkers flourishing. There were 150 stalls for every 10,000 residents in 1974 – the equivalent of more than 112,000 today – raising genuine concerns about hygiene, safety and obstruction of crowded streets.

But the government’s restrictive approach resulted in the number of itinerant hawkers dropping, plunging 80 per cent between 2000 and 2024, with only 233 remaining. Fixed-pitch licences, which can be passed on to a family member only once, fell by 40 per cent, to fewer than 5,000. Officials continue to be preoccupied with concerns about the nuisance hawkers might cause, rather than the benefits they bring. There is a need for a change in mindset.

Other parts of the region have realised that tourists love vibrant street markets and traditional hawker food. The rules should be reviewed, revamped, updated and relaxed.

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