Advertisement
Being Chinese
My food obsession has deep Chinese roots
The rationing era imprinted something on me – not just a craving for food, but a reverence. In Chinese culture, food is never just food
3-MIN READ3-MIN
3
Listen
Lijia Zhang is a rocket-factory worker turned social commentator, and the author of a novel, Lotus.
I think about food constantly, not in a passive way, but obsessively. I plan my next meal while still chewing the last bite of a repast. I always carry snacks: dried fruit or roasted nuts, just in case. When I travel abroad, I eagerly sample local cuisines and take cooking classes whenever I can. At home, I scout for new restaurants and often host dinner parties featuring my experimental dishes.
Sometimes I wonder how I came to have this fixation.
The answer, I suspect, lies in my childhood, when China was poor and food was scarce. I grew up in Nanjing in the 1970s, when ration coupons were still being issued. While I didn’t starve, there was never quite enough food for me to feel full, let alone indulge in. Meat was a rare treat, making only a modest appearance a few times each month. Milk was reserved for those of a certain ranking.
Select Voice
Select Speed
1x
AI-generated voice