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Kaswar Klasra

It’s midnight in Islamabad. Most of the shops in the Pakistani capital’s upscale Jinnah Super Market are closed. But there’s an inexplicable rush at Tandoori Junction, an open-air tea stall at the heart of the market.
Nearly a hundred people, including foreigners, are seated in small groups on low stools, sipping on piping hot milk tea served in clay terracotta mugs.
Dozens queue patiently nearby for their turn to get a seat at the stall, owned by Sanaullah Javed, a former chartered accountant.

Armed with US$4,000 in funds and a desire to sell traditional tea served with a unique twist, Sanaullah quit his well-paying job at a famous construction firm last October to realise his dream.
The 30-year-old faced disapproval from friends and family members for his decision.
“My relatives and friends didn’t like it. I was criticised for relinquishing a lucrative job only to sell tea to customers,” Sanaullah said. “They all believed the idea wouldn’t work. However, I proved them wrong with dedication and hard work.”
How Hong Kong-style milk tea became part of local culture
He also struggled with staffing issues at the start.
“I started with two workers picked up from the roadside. It was an uphill task to train them. One of them left me within a week,” he said, adding that he was not daunted by the challenges.
Barely a year later, word about the modest tea stall has spread across the capital. “The idea was to serve tea with a unique style. I’m glad it’s worked out well,” Sanaullah said.

At Tandoori Junction, the tea cups are as much an attraction as the drink, and the preparation process is a sight to behold.
First, the terracotta mugs are baked in high heat in a tandoor engineered by Sanaullah himself. The milk tea, already prepared, is then poured into the mugs, where it starts to boil, giving it a smoky flavour which has garnered it hundreds of fans.
“It took me two months to engineer this tandoor [oven]. At Tandoori Junction, it’s all about the way tea is prepared and served to customers,” Sanaullah said. “They like it. Hundreds of our customers film the tea-making scene on their smartphones.”

Tandoori Junction counts foreigners and diplomats among its regulars, and has customers hailing from places as varied as China, India, Russia, Thailand and the United States.
“It has great taste. The way tea is prepared here is worth seeing. I visit this place twice a week with colleagues,” said Lee, an Islamabad-based businessman from Singapore.
Riaz Hussain, a police inspector, said: “As law and order improves across Pakistan, diplomats and foreigners living in Islamabad find themselves comfortable to visit open cafes like Tandoori Junction.”

So popular is Sanaullah’s tea shop, he has begun to field requests for franchises locally and overseas.
A wealthy businessman from the UAE recently approached him to open a branch in Dubai, where a large number of tea-loving Pakistani and Indian expats are based, he said.
“Even in Pakistan, I receive such offers. Businessmen offer me US$15,000 per franchise,” Sanaullah said.
But the tea-maker has turned them down, insisting it is early days yet: “Honestly, it’s not the best time to expand my business overseas.”
Pakistan is one of the world’s top tea-consuming nations. No matter the time and place, Pakistanis of all ages can be found enjoying a cup, from house visits, to school canteens, market bazaars or VIP lounges at airports – and the nation’s love for the drink is ever growing.
China has a tea habit – and it means big business
A report last year by the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO) indicated Pakistan’s per capita consumption rose 35.8 per cent to about 1kg per person from 2007 to 2016.
Tea imports to Pakistan, which does not grow its own tea, rose 0.61 per cent to US$495.9 million in the current financial year to April, compared with the same period last year, according to the Bureau of Statistics.
For masters student Mustansar Abbas, having three cups of tea a day is routine, he said.
“I feel relaxed whenever I drink a cup of tea. For me, it’s a cure for fatigue and headache,” said Mustansar, who studies philosophy at Quaid-i-Azam University.
Sobia Ali Hina, a doctor in Islamabad, says her day is not complete without tea.
“I take tea at breakfast, then at lunch. Dinner cannot be imagined without tea,” Sobia said. “Tea has become a part of life.”


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Terracotta mugs baked in a tandoor. Photo: Kaswar Klasra

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Sanaullah Javed, owner of Tandoor Junction. Photo: Kaswar Klasra

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Asia

South Asia


A tea stall in Islamabad, started by a former chartered accountant, is winning fans for its traditional tea with a unique twist
Tandoori Junction’s ‘Tandoor Chai’ – piping hot milk tea served in terracotta mugs fresh out of the oven – is a crowd-pleaser that sees queues forming even past midnight



‘Tandoor Chai’ – milk tea served in terracotta mugs – is a new spin on a beloved drink, and it’s pulling in crowds at a little tea stall in Islamabad even past midnight.


Pakistan