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Gloria Fung

It is fascinating to see centuries of horological history at the heart of a contemporary watchmaker whose eponymous founder continues to preach the gospel of the good old-fashioned hand craftsmanship of traditional watchmaking.
Gübelin and Parmigiani Fleurier collaborate on new watch
Michael Parmigiani, the founder and name behind Parmigiani Fleurier, is a firm believer in the power of the human touch. His watchmaking background is rooted in restoration; in fact, he is one of the most celebrated and sought-after antique timepiece restoration experts in the world.

He has come to appreciate the importance of touching and feeling what is being made but that does not make him a naysayer of modern technology.
“The hand should be used when the results are better than those of machines. But where the machine does a better job, why not use the technology?”
Details such as guilloche found on the new dials of the brand’s flagship collection, the Toric, for example, is one craft that benefits from the warmth and emotion of a craftsman.
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Parmigiani is a master at drawing on tradition, and it works to the collection’s advantage. “When we look to the past, it can be a way to see the present and the future. How do we take something like old engraving techniques from the 19th century to create the right balance to please the eye today?”
The hand should be used when the results are better than those of machines. But where the machine does a better job, why not use the technology?
Michael Parmigiani
The new Toric Chronomètre Slate with its grey dial hits the high notes with the execution of a hand-turned guilloche dial. Parmigiani loves the pattern of guilloche. “The decoration is so captivating because it is based on the Golden Ratio. Within it, you see Fibonacci’s spirals, reproducing a harmony that is everywhere in nature.” This year’s three Toric references are all blessed with guilloche dials said to evoke the spirals and pattern of a pine cone.

The Toric Chronomètre Slate reference displays the time and date, with a simple layout of Arabic numeral hour markers bringing a sleek, uncluttered layout to the dial that leaves plenty of breathing space for the details of the guilloche. The in-house calibre PF441 that powers this design is automatic and COSC-certified, bringing motion to the hours, minutes, central seconds and date counters with its 55 hours of power reserve.
A truly vertically integrated watchmaking house that makes all but the leather straps (all sourced from Hermès) and mainsprings of its watches, Parmigiani extends two complication references to this new rose gold and guilloche case and dial combination.
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The Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde achieves the feat of fitting a precision moon phase and retrograde perpetual calendar across a dial without creating clutter. This is achieved by removing the numeral hour markers and replacing it with the retrograde date arched across the top of the dial. The month and day are displayed through apertures positioned just above the moon phase at 6 o’clock. The result is plenty of open space at the centre of the dial, again the perfect stage to showcase the hand-turned guilloche.

Powering the displays, and a leap year indicator at 12 o’clock, is an in-house calibre PF333. The moon phase is integrated into the same module as the calendar, upping the complexity of precision of a movement that requires a correction only once every 122 years.
And finally, the watchmaker presents its award-winning movement, the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde with the slate grey guilloche dial, adding yet another facet of craftsmanship to this reference. The winner in the Travel Time category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017, the two time zone watch offers the possibility for wearer to pair and correct the time of two time zones to the nearest minute.
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“To develop new pieces it’s important to appreciate traditions and know-how,” Parmigiani says. This trio of Toric timepieces is a reflection of the watchmaker’s pursuit of mechanical breakthroughs and his desire to bring to life new creations with the magic of the human touch.
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Founder Michael Parmigiani is a master at drawing on tradition, and it works to the collection’s advantage



Parmigiani Fleurier

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SIHH 2019: Parmigiani Fleurier gives craftsmen free rein to work their magic

.css-1mniedq{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;} Founder Michael Parmigiani is a master at drawing on tradition, and it works to the collection’s advantage

Founder Michael Parmigiani is a master at drawing on tradition, and it works to the collection’s advantage