New York Fashion Week 2023: Tory Burch deconstructs its looks with reinterpreted silhouettes and colours, modelled by Emily Ratajkowski and Irina Shayk as Ashley Graham cheers on from the crowd

Feb 15 , 2023

Model Emily Ratajkowski presents a creation by Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York, US, on February 13. Photo: EPA-EFE

On February 13, Tory Burch brought an unexpected twist to its autumn/winter collection presented at the historic Beaux-Arts style Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank in Manhattan

The label is known for its metal branding on products, yet retreated to rich colours and fabrics in lieu of its classic styles – with Claire Foy, Suki Waterhouse and Lana Condor sitting front row

Some think they know the Tory Burch aesthetic because of the ubiquitous iconic gold metal branding on shoes and handbags, but more recently Burch has been focusing on the unexpected.

A model presents a creation by Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York, US, on February 13. Photo: EPA-EFE

Her autumn/winter 2023 presentation at New York Fashion Week on February 13 night featured deconstructed looks in rich colours and fabrics that served as a creative surprise.

Model Emily Ratajkowski presents a head-to-toe black creation by Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York, US, on February 13. Photo: EPA-EFE

Burch loves a dramatic backdrop and says the space at the historic Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank (built in 1909 in the Beaux-Arts style) in downtown Manhattan set a scene, with mercurial shapes and artworks twisting into themselves, projected onto the towering ornate walls and a mysterious curtain that revealed the models as they entered.

Tory Burch’s creations experimented with distortion and femininity during New York Fashion Week in New York, US, on February 13. Photo: EPA-EFE

“I just thought it was such an interesting venue to experiment with distortion,” Burch told The Associated Press in an interview following the show. “The collection is a lot about distortion and femininity, and so just even taking in Venus and having her feel distorted, and the architecture … you’re looking at something, and that’s perception versus reality.”

A model walks the runway wearing a neutral-toned top for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week on February 13. Photo: AFP

The show included Burch hallmarks – neutral, classic colours like navy, tan, black and olive, but with splashes of brightness in red or metallic shoes and purses. But many looks reflected the themes of deconstruction: asymmetrical lines in skirts and belts, long blazers, exaggerated blouse cuffs and long and slouchy sleeves and pants.

The Tory Burch collection was described as being “a bit undone” during Fashion Week on February 13, in New York. Photo: AP