Rectangular watches are back, from Cartier to Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet
Driven by a revival in classic elegance, rectangular cases are capturing a new generation of collectors looking beyond standard round sports watches
Rectangular watches have long occupied a unique spot in horology. Less ubiquitous than round exemplars, these cases are home to some of the industry’s most enduring designs.
“The growing demand for rectangular cases is driven by a broader market shift towards classic elegance and understated luxury,” says Kana Mackie, who is responsible for Chrono24’s Asia-Pacific business. “Buyers are increasingly looking for distinctive silhouettes that stand out from the standard round sports watch.”
The origins of the rectangular case shape can be traced back to the early 20th century, as wristwatches began replacing the pocket variety. World War I accelerated that shift, as soldiers and officers needed practical timepieces they could check at a glance. As production increased, so did experimentation with different case shapes.
A round wristwatch, of course, made total sense as it not only followed the silhouette of the pocket watch, but also proved easy to seal against water and dust. A rectangular case, on the other hand (pun intended), benefits from a streamlined look that is more closely aligned with the shape of the wrist.
Rectangular cases also posed a new challenge inside the watch. Early wristwatches often used rounded movements, which fitted neatly into round cases but left unused space inside rectangular ones. Watchmakers responded by developing rectangular movements that fitted the case properly, rather than placing a round calibre inside and leaving empty space at the corners.