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Watches

The stone age: how watchmakers like Rolex, Chopard and Biver have embraced the hardstone dials trend

STORYJoshua Hendren
Biver Automatique Obsidian Mahogany. Photo: Handout
Biver Automatique Obsidian Mahogany. Photo: Handout
Timepieces

Materials like tiger’s eye, onyx and obsidian are lending unique depth and character to watch designs by Van Cleef & Arpels and more

Hardstone dials are everywhere in watchmaking right now. Over the past few years, maisons from Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget to independent family-owned makers like Biver have embraced slices of lapis, malachite, agate and other natural minerals, drawn to the depth and variation that stone brings to a dial.

Within this broader revival, however, a subcategory has emerged. Dark hardstones such as tiger’s eye, obsidian, onyx and even meteorite are growing ever popular, absorbing light rather than reflecting it and offering a moodier, more tactile alternative to lacquered or sunburst finishes. As with any natural hardstone, each dial is inherently unique, a thin slice of the earth – or, in the case of meteorite, outer space – brought directly to the wrist.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini in onyx. Photo: Handout
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini in onyx. Photo: Handout
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