Built for adventure: these rugged timepieces from Rolex, Omega, Richard Mille and others are made for the sporty types, weathering the ocean’s depths and the vastness of space
Whether deep diving or in the boardroom, these tool watches are equally at home, with unique features and design elements suited to those with an active lifestyle
It is a truism that most diver’s watches are far more likely to see the inside of a corporate boardroom than the deck of a schooner, let alone any inky ocean depths. Nonetheless, for those who want a timepiece that’s as rugged as it is stylish, an impressive range of innovative sports watches saw the light of day this year.
In particular, it was a bumper year for fans of maritime horology, with a focus on covetable diver’s watches. Chief among the anticipated releases was the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, an amalgam of two previous models, combining GMT functionality with the slimline, 39mm size of 2018’s Black Bay 58. Its release during Watches and Wonders with the gilt highlights made it an immediate fan favourite this year.
A more futuristic take on the diver’s watch comes in the form of the Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. It uses Elux, a luminescent material invented by the Italian manufacturer in the 1960s that can convert mechanical power to electricity to offer 30 minutes of juice to the indices, without employing any electronics.
For a stylish reimagining of the category, look no further than the Ming 37.09 Bluefin. Taking its inspiration from the Malaysian brand’s sleek, minimalist 37 collection, it packs 600 metres of water resistance into a compact 38mm case that’s just 12.8mm thick, with the dive timer located on the dial rather than the bezel.
Arguably the most radical take on the dive watch, though, comes in a decision to make it in the most traditional of watchmaking materials: gold. An imposing chunk of submersible bling, the Rolex Deepsea in gold weighs in at a hefty 300-plus grams, chunky enough to withstand pressures down to an almost-unheard-of 4,000 metres.
The Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space is a tribute to another fabled foray into the unknown – the space race – in the shape of a revisited design of the Reference CK 2998 from 1959. The piece oozes vintage flair without losing its tool watch touches – the durable aluminium bezel is paired with a lustrous dial, with contrasting and matching alpha hands and applied indices for legibility. Most notably, Omega finds a way to have its scratch-resistant sapphire case take on the taper found on its hesalite crystal.