How to build a luxury watch collection: 4 tips for beginners, from Rolex’s notorious wait-lists and Cartier’s surprising approachability – to the secondary market and vintage timepiece auctions

Mar 3 , 2024

A Richard Mille RM 6501 is perhaps not the ideal way to start your luxury watch collection. Photo: Handout

Hankering for a new Rolex, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe? Bad news – the wait-list could extend for months and you may end up losing interest, writes Priya Raj

If you’ve got your eye on a vintage luxury watch, follow the auction houses, but be prepared for a lack of papers – and be aware of buyer’s premium and shipping fees

As a fashion writer, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for watches and jewellery, and the stories behind them.

I’ve spoken to industry experts and picked their brains for tips and trends, but it doesn’t compare with the experience of handling – and if you’re lucky enough – buying these wearable commodities.

Things like wait-lists and the process of buying vintage were all new to me before I started purchasing my own luxury watches in the last few years.

Here are four things I learned while building my watch collection.

1. You can’t always get what you want

Rolex watches have a lengthy wait-list. Photo: Handout

Luxury brands are making it harder for us to part with our money, but not for the reasons you might think.

Whether it’s Hermès with its Birkin handbags and notorious no-guarantee wait-list, or Rolex with another indefinite wait-list, you might need to wait your turn even after making peace with the hefty price tags.

Earlier this year, I went into my local Rolex retailer in Scotland. One of the watches I inquired about, a left-handed GMT-Master II, was a new and rare design, but I wanted to try my luck.