Bronze watches are back: Panerai and Tudor craft modern titans of time, while Bell & Ross add an avant-garde twist, as the historic heavy metal leads statement timepiece trends in 2o24

If you’re looking for a statement watch to stand out in the crowd for all the right reasons, it’s time to consider a bronze case. As one of the earliest metals known to man, bronze has a storied history stretching back several millennia. The earliest bronze items ever discovered date back to 3,300 BC, therefore considered the start of the Bronze Age, a period that lasted more than two millennia, during which the alloy was primarily used for making tools, weapons and armour. Tech bro bling: 9 watch brands that Silicon Valley millionaires love Bronze has been used in the creation of watches since the late 19th century. Back then, bronze was commonly used to create watch cases, as containing around 12 per cent tin and 88 per cent copper in its purest form, it was known for its durability and resistance to corrosion. The Gefica Kilimanjaro watch was one of the earliest examples of a luxury bronze timepiece. Introduced in 1988 by Gérald Genta – the man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1970) and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976) – the watch was clad entirely in bronze, chosen for its matt appearance and vintage-inspired aesthetic. Over time, however, watchmakers have experimented with other materials – stainless steel, ceramic, gold and even nano-tube carbon – causing bronze watches to dip in popularity. Why Audemars Piguet is headed for record sales despite inflation Fast forward to today, however, and bronze timepieces are experiencing quite the renaissance as the world’s leading brands rediscover their appeal. And, as one of the hottest trends in watchmaking right now, there’s no shortage of options to choose from. At Florentine watchmaker Panerai, bronze has long been used in the creation of one of its most emblematic models: the Bronzo. First released in 2011 in a limited run of 1,000, the model was an instant sensation with Panerai’s devoted fans – the Paneristi – who clamoured for the design’s chunky 47mm case, carved out of bronze with a unique weathered effect. Building on that success, two years later Panerai released another Bronzo, this time with a power-reserve indicator; and a further model followed in 2017, with a blue dial. Now the brand’s latest Bronzo – the skeletonised Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo – launched earlier this year in celebration of the brand’s new flagship boutique in New York and is arguably its most mechanically complex yet. Reworking one of Panerai’s most celebrated signatures, the classic 45mm Radiomir has been sculpted in bronze, set to a brushed finish and presented on a leather strap with creamy stitching and matching bronze trapezoidal pin buckle. Tudor has also been busy with materials this year, unveiling its much-loved 39mm Black Bay 58 in a new full-on bronze look. Using the same aluminium bronze alloy that it has worked with for the past five years, Tudor has fitted this latest model with a shaded matt brown dial and matching bronze bracelet. If the full-bronze bracelet is too much for you, the brand also includes one of their luxe fabric straps with each purchase, woven for Tudor on 19th-century looms at Julien Faure, a French firm that weaves liturgical vestments for the Vatican. For an avant-garde take on the trend, look to French watchmaker Bell & Ross, which earlier this year unveiled the latest iteration of its iconic Cyber Skull, this time adorned with bronze. Introduced in 2009 with the launch of the BR 01 Skull, the Skull collection has become emblematic of the brand. The BR 01 Skull Bronze, released in 2015, was the first in the family to adopt a bronze case. This was followed a year later with the BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon for the Only Watch charity sale. In 2017, the brand debuted a further bronze model, introducing a unique 3D element with the BR 01 Burning Skull Bronze. Why luxury watch theft surged in the past year – with Rolex most targeted Now, this latest model, limited to just 500 pieces, reinterprets the squared case and bevelled corners of the Cyber Skull in lustrous bronze. Driven by the BR-CAL.210 calibre, the bronze skull that punctuates the centre of the timepiece comes alive with the turning of the crown, its jaws opening and closing in a feat of technical brilliance. Tempted to try the trend yourself? Few precious metals can rival the singularity of bronze, as it gains a unique tarnished patina over time, enjoying a life of its own on the wrist just as unique as that of its owner.