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Vincenzo La Torre

Chief Editor, Style; Fashion Editor, Post Magazine


It’s been almost two years since Catherine Rénier was appointed CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels after a successful stint as CEO at watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre. She couldn’t have joined at a better time for the jewellery maison.
Established in 1906 in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most respected names in high jewellery – but don’t let its long history fool you. Over the years, the prestigious house has maintained its relevance among younger generations thanks to the success of its fine jewellery lines – chief among them the bestselling Alhambra, which boasts fans ranging from Middle Eastern princesses and New York socialites to NBA players and hip-hop artists.
If recent results from parent company Richemont are any indication, the popularity of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra and other lines such as Perlée has been the main contributor to the growth of the jewellery category within the group.

This is in spite of the fact that Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the only high-end labels to shun celebrity ambassadors and influencers, instead promoting true exclusivity through initiatives that celebrate genuine savoir faire and the pure appeal of its creations.
The house, however, is not resting on its laurels. Earlier this year, it launched two fine jewellery lines – Flowerlace and Fleurs d’Hawaï – both inspired by the floral motifs that have always been at the heart of its visual vocabulary.
The collections debuted at the Scottish estate Dumfries House, where the Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Garden acted as an apt backdrop for the unveiling of the ranges.
As Rénier explained in an interview in Scotland, the group always thinks long term, even if doing so can slow down growth, which is why you can expect her to stay the course, both when it comes to the brand’s celebrity strategy and its focus on highlighting craftsmanship and excellence.
At the Scotland event, for instance, a series of artisans – from lapidaries to stone setters – showcased some of the steps involved in making the house’s creations, which is nothing new in the world of luxury, but certainly more refreshing and even more radical than taking snapshots of a “brand ambassador” who often knows very little about the pieces they are wearing.

“This is a very important aspect of our commitment at the maison, on many levels,” said Rénier. “One is about educating the public on this know-how. For that, we have L’École [School of Jewelry Arts], supported by Van Cleef & Arpels – and we’re so grateful. But we also do more in France, where we have our workshops, with initiatives to [spread] knowledge about these jobs. What is it like to be a polisher? What is it like to be a jeweller?”
By showing the outside world what goes on within these crafts, Rénier hopes that more young people will consider a career in a field that historically has struggled to attract newcomers, though recently it has become more appealing to graduates in France and beyond.
She explained that while tradition plays a key role in the making of jewels – some of them crafted according to centuries-old methods – technology is just as important. “There are a lot of innovations. For instance, you can have help for polishing, where even if it’s done by hand, a machine will help you, which in turn enables women to access some of these jobs and makes them less exhausting, also [less taxing] for the eyes.”

History also plays an important role in design, as the Flowerlace and Fleurs d’Hawaï collections demonstrate. The gold ribbon motif in the Flowerlace pieces is a reference to the Fleur Silhouette clips Van Cleef & Arpels made in the 1930s, while Fleurs d’Hawaï harks back to creations such as the iconic 1939 Passe-Partout, a necklace, belt and bracelet all in one.
“We are in an industry that is timeless,” said Rénier. “Our pieces don’t have an expiry date. They are not being put aside because of a new trend, fashion or collection. They last forever and come back. We have reinterpreted collections or revived collections. Alhambra was down and up, but it’s always been there. Jewellery has this continuity that is a very natural way to bridge the future and the past. You’re never looking at something thinking ‘that’s outdated’, because when you invest in these pieces, it’s for you to keep, to pass on. It’s a different relationship to a bag or shoes. It’s the little black dress; it will always be there.”

Rénier is clearly on to something. Fine jewellery as a category has experienced steady growth in contrast to the less-than-stellar performance of luxury sectors such as fashion and leather goods. Amid an increasingly uncertain global economy, high-end customers have become more discerning and are focusing on more sensible purchases, prioritising items that have longevity, such as jewels. “It’s the timelessness, the reassuring aspect,” said Rénier. “You know what you invest in because it will be there to stay. You can pass it on to the next generation and it will be appreciated, have meaning and probably a special memory. [Unlike other industries,] we work with precious materials – gold, stones. You understand first-hand the value and the craftsmanship.”
This slow and steady approach has clearly paid off. Thanks to its measured approach to growth, Van Cleef & Arpels has become even more desirable among jaded luxury consumers who prize brands that stand for something rather than those that follow short-lived trends and rely on fickle “ambassadors”.

In a landscape where global economic volatility creates constant uncertainty, Rénier is pragmatic, taking the long view.
“You need to focus on what you can influence and make long-term decisions that are important for creativity, for brand equity, for your teams,” she said. “That’s my job. What you can’t control, you manage as it comes along. If you start being anxious about everything that could happen, then for sure you stop sleeping at night. So we focus on what matters and what we can control. We manage what can happen. And then we stay strong and make the right call.”


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Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Catherine Rénier at Dumfries House in Scotland. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels’ recently launched Flowerlace collection. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï secret watch. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace necklace. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï clip in rose gold, rhodolites and diamonds. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï clip in yellow gold, peridots and diamonds. Photo: Handout

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Ashley Zhang Edwardian moonstone and diamond pendant. Photo: Handout

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Pomellato High Jewelry Collezione 1967 Key to the Moon brooch. Photo: Handout

Tiffany & Co. Seahorse brooch, featuring moonstones. Photo: Handout

Boodles Raindrop ring. Photo: Handout

Hirsh London Rainbow Moonstone Venus Ring. Photo: Handout 

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Kindred Lubeck (left) designed the ring for Taylor Swift’s engagement to Travis Kelce. Photos: @artifexfine, @taylorswift/Instagram

Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce announced their engagement in a joint Instagram post on August 26. Photo: @taylorswift/Instagram

Taylor Swift’s engagement ring from Travis Kelce was designed by Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry. Photo: @taylorswift/Instagram

Kindred Lubeck’s father Jay is also a jewellery designer. Photo: @artifexfine/Instagram

Kindred Lubeck established her brand, Artifex Fine Jewelry, in New York. Photo: @artifexfine/Instagram

Kindred Lubeck is known for her vintage-style rings featuring hand engraving. Photo: @artifexfine/Instagram

Lapis lazuli, prized since ancient times for its dazzling blue hue and protective properties, is attracting a new generation of admirers, including Rihanna, Kate Middleton and Jennifer Lawrence

At the Wales v England Six Nations rugby match in March, Kate Middleton wore earrings in lapis lazuli, a stone prized since ancient times for its dazzling blue hue and protective properties, and that is attracting a new generation of admirers including Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence. Photo: PA Images via Getty Images

Van Cleef & Arpels Two Butterfly ring in yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli, and earring in lapis lazuli. Photo: Handout

Jacquie Aiche Evil Eye pendant with lapis lazuli. Photo: Handout

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Gerard Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli. Photo: Handout

Ananya Chakra earrings in lapis lazuli and white gold. Photo: Handout

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Harry Winston Peacock Brooch. Photo: Christie’s

Earrings by JAR at the upcoming Christie’s auction. Photo: Handout

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Cartier 20.09-carat Burmese unheated sapphire and diamond ring at Phillips’ auction. Photo: Phillips

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As Van Cleef & Arpels adds new blooms to its collections, we speak to CEO Catherine Rénier on the brand’s success so far – and plans for the future


As Van Cleef & Arpels adds new blooms to its collections, we speak to CEO Catherine Rénier on the brand’s success so far – and plans for the future.


Richemont’s Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Catherine Rénier on timelessness and sustainable growth – interview

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}As Van Cleef & Arpels adds new blooms to its collections, we speak to CEO Catherine Rénier on the brand’s success so far – and plans for the future

As Van Cleef & Arpels adds new blooms to its collections, we speak to CEO Catherine Rénier on the brand’s success so far – and plans for the future