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SCMP Style Reporter

Each year Boucheron creative director Claire Choisne is offered total freedom to push forward ideas of what high jewellery can be with the maison’s Carte Blanche collection.
Founded in 1858 by the enterprising Frédéric Boucheron, the maison treasures modernity and new perspectives. Its pieces can resemble objets d’art and are unlike anything you will see elsewhere on Paris’ venerable Place Vendôme, where Boucheron remains the oldest jeweller still in operation.

Following on from January’s Histoire de Style Untamed Nature collection, a nod to Frédéric Boucheron’s takes on the natural world – an eternal source of inspiration – the latest chapter, Impermanence, contemplates nature on a more contemplative and more personal level.
In six compositions, the collection takes inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi in its acceptance of imperfection, and the Japanese art of flower arranging, ikebana, which translates as “giving life to flowers”. In each, Choisne sought to capture the ephemeral element of nature with one-of-a-kind creations.

“In this new Carte Blanche collection, I’ve sought to capture the beauty of nature before it vanishes,” she says.
“These six compositions illustrate nature’s fleetingness and fluidity, shifting from light to shadow to highlight how precious it is … The collection is an ode to that fragile instant that I wanted to crystallise for eternity.”

The compositions, each capturing nature’s idiosyncrasies – the delicacy of a tulip, the wildness of a thistle or the sense of an oak tree moving in a breeze – fuse ancient and modern techniques, some not previously realised in high jewellery. This traverses the breadth of craftsmanship, from glassmaking to plant-based resin rendered with 3D printing technology.

Precious materials such as diamonds are painstakingly set; as in the 600 bezel-set onto the thistle of composition No 5 in a new “couture” setting. Or the 700 rose-cut diamonds set to create a stained-glass window effect in the petals of the cyclamen captured in composition No 4, combined with rock crystals and lacquer. Here the stages of life are depicted with a caterpillar crafted in white gold, diamonds and black spinels below a butterfly set to take flight with its snow-set diamond wings.

So how to wear such intricate jewels? Each of the compositions fit with the Boucheron tradition of multiwear. In the Boucheron universe, a eucalyptus leaf can become a brooch or be worn in the hair; a dragonfly may suspend from the ear; and a cyclamen, with a pivoting mechanism, may become either bracelet or a brooch. In keeping with pushing the boundary of high jewellery, the larger thistle in composition No 5 can be “picked” and attached to a cord to be worn across the body, while the smaller can be worn as a double-finger ring.
All allow for personal interpretations of the nature that surrounds us, and its eternal yet constantly changing beauty.


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Style Edit: Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne unveils Impermanence: 6 new multipurpose compositions aligned with the Japanese belief of wabi-sabi and themed around nature’s transient beauty

Composition No 3 from the Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence collection. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence No 2. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence No 6. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence No 1. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence No 4. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Carte Blanche Impermanence No 5. Photo: Handout

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Dakota Johnson and Pedro Pascal in their new movie Materialists. Photo: TNS

Dakota Johnson wears a jacket and wedges by Khaite in New York, on May 30. Photo: GC Images

Dakota Johnson is seen in Tribeca, New York, on June 2, wearing a Balenciaga blazer and bodysuit. Photo: GC Images

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Chris Evans and co-star Dakota Johnson at the New York premiere of their movie Materialists on June 7. Photo: AP

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Brad Pitt and Inés de Ramon at the Venice International Film Festival last September. Photo: Getty Images

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The maison, founded in the 19th century by Frédéric Boucheron, is still based in Paris’ Place Vendôme, and still pushing the bounds of creativity in high jewellery


The maison, founded in the 19th century by Frédéric Boucheron, is still based in Paris’ Place Vendôme, and still pushing the bounds of creativity in high jewellery.


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Style Edit: Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne unveils Impermanence: 6 new multipurpose compositions aligned with the Japanese belief of wabi-sabi and themed around nature’s transient beauty

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The maison, founded in the 19th century by Frédéric Boucheron, is still based in Paris’ Place Vendôme, and still pushing the bounds of creativity in high jewellery

The maison, founded in the 19th century by Frédéric Boucheron, is still based in Paris’ Place Vendôme, and still pushing the bounds of creativity in high jewellery