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Francesca Fearon

A precious, deep blue gemstone is increasingly captivating jewellery designers. Tanzanite was first discovered in 1967 by Maasai herders in Tanzania’s Merelani Hills near Mount Kilimanjaro and is still the world’s only known source, meaning the stone remains very rare.
Tanzanite was given its name by Tiffany & Co. – the first jeweller to market it – and the brand commanded a monopoly on the stone until the 1980s. Now, this vivid, blue-violet hued gem is animating collections from Dior to Chaumet, Pomellato to Mouawad, and even those of avant-garde creators Hemmerle and Giorgio B.

Part of its allure is its more affordable price compared to sapphire, but the clarity and large carat sizes in which the stones are available add to their appeal. The price of unheated Kashmir and Sri Lankan sapphires is rising inexorably. A polished royal blue sapphire from Sri Lanka costs just under US$5,000 per carat, whereas a loose stone or a Kashmiri gem are too rare to consider for most. A necklace set with a lot of sapphires has suddenly become a very expensive item – and jewellers are rethinking their options.
Dior’s new high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, features a tanzanite parure with a 7.58-carat oval-cut tanzanite centre stone on a floral necklace and 4.84-carat tanzanite ring. There are also several voluminous tanzanite rings in Chaumet’s high jewellery range; Pomellato has added it to their Nudo collection; and Mouawad’s Venus collection pairs the stone with a pearl on a bangle, ring and earrings.

Meanwhile, Tanzanite’s electrifying hue and volume brings a fresh energy to Munich-based Hemmerle’s time-honoured metalwork, mounted in tonally complementary amaranth wood and anodised aluminium earrings for a very contemporary look. “High quality tanzanite typically offers excellent clarity, enabling bold cuts that showcase its depth of colour,” explains Yasmin Hemmerle, who co-designs the collection with her husband Christian. “Beyond its physical beauty, tanzanite carries a narrative of discovery, wonder and emotional resonance that aligns with Hemmerle’s ethos of crafting intimate and contemporary heirlooms to be enjoyed every day.”
After setting a 19.52 carat tanzanite in a curvaceous bombé ring last year, Giorgio Bulgari – founder of Geneva’s Giorgio B and scion of the Bulgari jewellery family – became so bewitched by the stone’s midnight blue colour that he spent months trying to create the perfect blue in titanium to match the gem. “I couldn’t find a metal to set it in that would look good, there was too much of a contrast, and then I started anodising titanium until I found a colour that would match the tanzanite tone on tone,” he says. This one-of-a-kind ring sparked an equally rare addition to Giorgio B’s Palma collection, a show-stopping ring of blue titanium set with an emerald cut tanzanite that debuts this month.


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Masterpieces

Into the blue: why brands from Dior to Chaumet and Giorgio B are falling for tanzanite, a gemstone from the hills of Mount Kilimanjaro first made famous by Tiffany & Co. in the 60s

Hemmerle’s tanzanite and anodised aluminium earrings. Photo: Handout

Mouawad’s Venus bangle features a tanzanite and pearl on a band of diamond-set white gold. Photo: Handout

Hemmerle earrings featuring tanzanite set in amaranth wood and anodised aluminium. Photo: Handout

Why the Paraiba tourmaline is jewellery’s rising star, stealing the spotlight from traditional gems – and luxury brands from Dior to Bulgari are rushing to capture its neon-blue allure

Boghossian Palace Voyages Taman Sari Flowing Droplets necklace and earrings. Photo: Handout

Bulgari Mosaic of Time necklace from the Aeterna collection with Paraiba and pink tourmalines. Photo: Handout

Pomellato Barocco necklace featuring a free-form Paraiba tourmaline centrepiece. Photo: Handout

Ornate ring from the Dior Diorama & Diorigami collection. Photo: Handout

Simone Jewels bespoke ring with Paraiba and diamonds. Photo: Handout

Oceanica ring by David Morris. Photo: Handout

Designer Vincent Raffin’s high jewellery journey: from enthusiast and Dior intern to launching his own brand, Pen Mané

Designer Vincent Raffin has just debuted his fine jewellery brand, Pen Mané. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Vincent Guy Raffin’s love affair with jewellery started when he was a boy. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Vincent Guy Raffin’s stints at jewellery houses allowed him insights on different aspects of the business. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Vincent Guy Raffin’s Eternity earrings in black gold. Photo: Handout

Vincent Guy Raffin’s Wild Coast collection comes in four shades. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

How jewellery brands are helping to preserve traditional crafts, from Dior and Van Cleef & Arpels to Buccellati and Cindy Chao The Art Jewel

Cindy Chao at the Haute École de Joaillerie (HEJ) in Paris. Photo: Cindy Chao

Carving in chrysoprase from Dior’s latest high jewellery collection. Photo: Dior

Glyptic art from Dior’s latest high jewellery collection. Photo: Dior

Anna Hu giving feedback to students at the Haute École de Joaillerie (HEJ) in Paris. Photo: Anna Hu

A sketch of the sculpture Cindy Chao and her students worked on. Photo: Cindy Chao

The 5 biggest trends we spotted from high jewellery season: Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier, Bulgari and Dior all debut dazzling collections for 2024

Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier, Bulgari (seen here) and Dior all debuted dazzling high jewellery collections for 2024 at the recent season’s launches. Photos: Handout

Cartier Panthère Jaillissante bracelet/ring 

Kimberley Woltemas at the launch of Cartier’s Nature Sauvage high jewellery collection in Vienna in May

Chanel Graphic Line necklace

Tiffany Celeste Ray of Light necklace

Bulgari Aeterna high jewellery collection

Louis Vuitton High Jewellery Awakened Hands Élégance necklace

6 new jewellery launches this spring: Hermès and Cartier top our wish list – the former clearly with the classic Birkin bag in mind, while the latter’s motifs are all animal-inspired

Hermès Sac Bijou. Photo: Handout

Cartier Trinity pieces are embellished with motifs drawn from the brand’s signature animals. Photo: Handout

Pascale Monvoisin Marcel lighter-inspired bracelet. Photo: Handout

Dickson Yewn Floral Lattice Mating Wasps square ring. Photo: Handout

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Repossi Serti Sur Vide diamond and emerald ear cuff. Photo: Handout

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Sourced exclusively from a small region of Tanzania, these deep blue stones aren’t just a savvy alternative to sapphire, but are inspiring designers to create unique high jewellery


Sourced exclusively from a small region of Tanzania, these deep blue stones aren’t just a savvy alternative to sapphire, but are inspiring designers to create unique high jewellery.
