How the pearl is making a dramatic new statement – think less twinset, more modern-day diva thanks to Givenchy, Chanel, Mikimoto, Tiffany & Co and Huishan Zhang

When Sarah Burton showcased her debut collection for Givenchy in March, it felt like a strong, contemporary interpretation of the maison’s classic style – less Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s and more modern-day diva. Burton had been inspired by archival patterns of Hubert de Givenchy’s original 1952 debut that were found during renovations of his first atelier. She took those structured silhouettes and gave them a dramatic, up-to-the-minute turn in pieces like a jewelled top with broken-chandelier elements and glass pearls, and lots of outlandishly large pearl earrings. Burton was not alone in her inspiration. Chanel is synonymous with pearls, but the brand’s autumn/winter 2025 catwalk saw the volume increase dramatically, creating a cross-body loop graduating in diameter from 2mm on the shoulder to at least 5mm draped on the hip. There were also colourful long-line knits layered with extra long sautoirs of enormous pearls. Meanwhile, golf ball-sized pearls dangled from the lobes of models at Huishan Zhang. They were dressed in chic pinstripe pantsuits and 60s style brocade evening gowns for a collection inspired by the rebellious style of Edie Sedgwick, the American heiress and Andy Warhol muse who died aged 28, as well as the glamour of the Valley of the Dolls, Jacqueline Susann’s novel set in 1960s California. “I used oversized, eye-catching pearls to flip the idea of traditional femininity,” explains Zhang. “Pearls are usually seen as classic and proper, but here they’re bold and theatrical – a statement about rewriting the rules and celebrating women who define themselves on their own terms.” These ballooning pearls are, of course, far larger than what nature can provide. But their popularity on the catwalk and among stylists has put large pearls, natural and otherwise, in the spotlight. The largest natural pearls are the saltwater South Sea and Tahitian species, whose allure is drawing a new, younger fan base. “There’s definitely been a strong resurgence of interest in bold, large-scale pearl pieces but also pearl jewellery in general,” says Ruby Autore, who is head of marketing at the family-run Autore Group, one of the world’s largest South Sea pearl companies. She points out how short strands have become especially popular, offering a contemporary edge to a classic look; Autore’s drop earrings featuring sizeable South Sea pearls are a consistent bestseller and in high demand. “Clients and stylists alike are gravitating towards these impactful designs that showcase the beauty of the pearl,” she says. Jewellery brands like pearl specialist Tasaki showcase beautiful South Sea pearls in contemporary settings for earrings and rings in its premium Atelier collection. Short choker-style necklaces are mostly strands of 14.5mm to 15.5mm diameter pearls, although there are short necklaces with 16.3mm stones which look great styled with a crisp open shirt. For a longer sautoir of course, one could always join necklaces together for greater impact, although that would require deep pockets because of the rarity of these pearls. Fellow Japanese pearl specialist Mikimoto zooms in on large South Sea pearls for earrings and rings rather than a fully matched necklace, but it is still better known for its daintier Akoya pearl jewels. Its unisex collection Passionoir presents a strong contemporary look, toughening up the sensuous beauty of the pearl by pairing black Tahitians with black rhodium plated silver – for bracelets – or white gold – for earrings and necklaces. American brand Assael has bold Tahitian necklaces that appeal to men and women and some of its voluminous 17-19mm choker-length South Sea pearl necklaces are especially rare for their size and symmetry. South Sea and Tahitian pearls also appear in high jewellery collections from luxury maisons like Boghossian, where the two saltwater species are combined harmoniously in asymmetric earrings. While Tiffany & Co.’s Titan collection, designed in collaboration with Pharrell Williams, has bold Tahitian pearls mixed with diamonds and rose gold, which illustrate how fashion is shaking up classic jewellery houses while also ramping up the appeal of pearls to men. The famous black Tahitians that grow in the lagoons of Pacific atolls range from 8-15mm in diameter, and are not all black, though those coloured dark grey to black are more expensive. Green, blue and aubergine tones exist too, including the less familiar pistachio which family-owned pearl specialist Yoko London strings into necklaces and diamond drop earrings. The more unusual colours are dependent on factors including sea temperature and access to sunlight. South Sea pearls, mostly from Australasia, typically range from 9-18mm, with 12-16mm being the most common size. “We do see exceptional pearls produced from our pearl farms that exceed 18mm, and on rare occasions 20mm,” says Autore. “These larger pearls command incredibly high prices due to their rarity and we would be lucky to get a few per year among an annual harvest of 350,000-400,000.” South Sea pearls are renowned for their natural lustre – often described as satiny or glowing from within – as well as their substantial size, symmetry and luxurious appearance. Their colour typically ranges from classic white to silver, though Autore’s company also produce the sought-after “gem pink” hue at their pearl farms. “This intense lustre is mesmerising and has a mirror-like effect,” she says. “The return of large pearls in fashion – even though some are exaggerated in size and not natural – presents a great opportunity for promoting larger pearls,” points out Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London. “Pearl types like South Sea, baroque and Tahitian are luxurious, rare and timeless, and make a strong statement in line with current fashion trends.” Hakimian regards them as a refined and natural alternative to the larger-than-life catwalk examples and “a perfect chance to highlight these pearls as a lasting investment piece”. Baroque pearls are also drawing widespread interest. The name originates from the Portuguese word “barocco”, which means imperfect. It’s a term that can be used to describe any irregular, asymmetrical pearl, whatever its size. Their unique characteristic adds visual interest and heightens the lustre of baroque pearl jewellery. For example, Olympic 100 metres champion Noah Lyles wore a fistful of large baroque pearl rings to the Met Gala earlier in May. Baroque pearls might typically be less expensive than perfectly round pearls of the same type, such as South Sea or Tahitian. Nevertheless, Hakimian explains how “high quality baroque pearls, especially those with exceptional lustre, colour and surface, can be incredibly valuable and sought-after for their unique character and artistic appeal,” which is why they can be found in high jewellery collections like that of Australian designer Margot McKinney or Hirsh London. “Their organic shapes often make them stand out as statement pieces in contemporary jewellery,” Hakimian adds. Designers would surely approve.